The Gypsies Rock Climbing
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|Submitted By: ||Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: Lower Gypsy is the furthest one on the left (exclu...
These are a group of towers that include both aid and free climbing routes. Most of the routes were put up in the 1990s.
These towers are a pain to get to. They are a cluster of 3 and half towers located in-between Ute and Red Canyon.
By far, the easiest approach is just drive through the neighborhood directly below them, get as close as possible, and hike straight up drainages to them. But this approach requires crossing private property, and there are several "No Monument Access" signs on the roads there.
Another option is to head up to Red Canyon (which also requires crossing private property unless you start in a drainage from S. Camp Road, i.e. very far away) and then head up the bench and contour west to the towers. The third option with no access issues is to go to the Liberty Cap trailhead, follow that up to the bench, and head on over to the towers. This way is very long! It is best to seek permission to cross private property.
Weather station 0.1 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Gypsies
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Gypsies:
Featured Route For The Gypsies
Phat Gypsy - DJ's Excellent Adventure 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b CO
: Grand Junction Area
: ... : The Gypsies
This is a pretty good route. Both pitches were physical in nature, but in general, it was characterized by fairly strenous hand jamming and good finger torques. It is possible that some or all of this was done by another party a while ago as we did encounter (what looked like) a bail bolt and single biner at mid-height on the 1st pitch right next to bomer gear. The rock was not definitely Indian Creek quality but passable for solid, Monument, tower climbing. Tape is recomended as the jamming ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Oct 11, 2014
I still don't understand which is which. Desert Rock has Upper, Middle, and baby Gypsy. Is the DJ's Excellent Adventure actually on the fourth tower (more like a butte)?
Oct 12, 2014
Yes, I should probably change that just to avoid confusion, originally we thought upper Gypsy was the wide butte separated from the rim, but after talking with Luke about anchors and rereading DR, we realized that it was not in the book. It's a good climb, on the side that faces the Grand Junction entrance kiosk.