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The Gypsies

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Gypsy - South face T 
Baby Gypsy-North Face T 
Franklin's Tower - Dark Star T 
Franklin's Tower - The Mine Shaft T 
Lower Gypsy-East Chimney T 
Middle Gypsy-Sandstone Sandwich T 
Phat Gypsy - DJ's Excellent Adventure T 
Unsorted Routes:
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The Gypsies  

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Administrators: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Lower Gypsy is the furthest one on the left (exclu...


These are a group of towers that include both aid and free climbing routes. Most of the routes were put up in the 1990s.

Getting There 

These towers are a pain to get to. They are a cluster of 3 and half towers located in-between Ute and Red Canyon.

By far, the easiest approach is just drive through the neighborhood directly below them, get as close as possible, and hike straight up drainages to them. But this approach requires crossing private property, and there are several "No Monument Access" signs on the roads there.

Another option is to head up to Red Canyon (which also requires crossing private property unless you start in a drainage from S. Camp Road, i.e. very far away) and then head up the bench and contour west to the towers. The third option with no access issues is to go to the Liberty Cap trailhead, follow that up to the bench, and head on over to the towers. This way is very long! It is best to seek permission to cross private property.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.1 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Gypsies:
Baby Gypsy - South face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Franklin's Tower - Dark Star   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in The Gypsies

Featured Route For The Gypsies
Follow the obvious corner.

Franklin's Tower - Dark Star 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : Grand Junction Area : ... : The Gypsies
Two independent pitches join "The Mine Shaft" for the third and summit pitch. This is a great steep line up a tower at a surprisingly moderate grade. A good OW climber will call it 5.9, a poor one not so much.P1. Climb up to the obvious corner through the chinle start. OW and chimney up the clean corner above bypassing several fixed pieces that take some of the sting out. This is a full body workout on great stone, 5.9+, 100' +/-.P2. Head up left into the large, double roofs wit...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Oct 11, 2014
I still don't understand which is which. Desert Rock has Upper, Middle, and baby Gypsy. Is the DJ's Excellent Adventure actually on the fourth tower (more like a butte)?
By Airbiscuit
Oct 12, 2014
Yes, I should probably change that just to avoid confusion, originally we thought upper Gypsy was the wide butte separated from the rim, but after talking with Luke about anchors and rereading DR, we realized that it was not in the book. It's a good climb, on the side that faces the Grand Junction entrance kiosk.
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