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DescriptionSituated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank. Getting ThereEDIT: The current "approved" approach is to park at the Bank Campground parking area, then follow the Cactus cliff trail down into the drainage for The Bank, up the other side, east along the base of the Bank to reach the old Cactus cliff access road, then up the road, along the base of The Vault to the pit toilet below the Cash Wall, then east again to reach the far left end of Cactus Cliff. Then follow the Cactus Cliff cliff-base trail along the entire length of Cactus, then to Spiney Ridge, along the entire legth of Spiney, around the point, then north past "The New Gym", to eventually reach The Gym. Sounds like a pretty long approach, huh? Basically its ~15 minutes further than Cactus, depending on your specific destination. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Gym:
Ga-stoned Again 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
The Crack of Dawn 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch
Urban Fringe 5.10d Sport
Natty Dread 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Crystal 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Morning Stretch 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
The Raw and the Roasted 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch
Pulley Mammoth 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
In The Morning You'll Be Mine 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch
Arnold! Arnold! 5.11d Sport
Spontaneous Combustion 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
The Gym Arete 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch
The Smoking Pickle 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet
The Ejection Seat 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch
Ejection Generation 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Gym Arete Direct 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
My Generation 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch
Head Cheese 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
The Example 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Deeper Shade Of Soul 5.13 Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch
Featured Route For The Gym
Solar Flex 5.11c CO : Shelf Road : The Gym
This route is located on the black bowling ball buttress just up canyon from the Example prow. The buttress contains two routes, "Arnold, Arnold!", and to its right, "Solar Flex".You may want to stick clip the first bolt, then scramble up a chossy flake to begin the route. The hardness gets going right away, with steeper than normal (for Shelf) climbing up excellent stone. Move quickly to a good rest at a flake just right of the 3rd bolt. Past this, the crux involves spanning a long blank se...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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