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The Alcove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carnivore S 
El Nino S 
Geezer S 
Gravity S 
Guillotine, The S 
Pride S 
Right Stuff, The S 
Spam S 
Whippersnapper S 

The Guillotine 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson (1997)
Page Views: 4,611
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Dec 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
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Ryan B ....solid on the flake

Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>


Starts up the left facing corner, clipping the bolts on the left wall. Once you reach the flake follow it up and left to Geezer's anchors.


The right most route on the wall. Climb the left facing corner below the right side of the wide flake.


8 bolts to shared 2 open shuts.

Photos of The Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt B cleans up the flake and goes north to the a...
Matt B cleans up the flake and goes north to the a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is Brooke looking for the footholds.
Here is Brooke looking for the footholds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Guillotine
Leading Guillotine
Rock Climbing Photo: On the flake.
On the flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on the Guillotine
Ben on the Guillotine

Comments on The Guillotine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fixius
From: Sherman Oaks, California
Jun 30, 2016

The hook anchors of this route are more than half way worn through, and the edges are sharp. They should be replaced ASAP. DO NOT TOP ROPE OR LOWER DIRECTLY OFF OF THESE ANCHORS, or any anchors for that matter. I believe Pride, and Geezer share these anchors as well. Be mindful.
By Jeff Lee11
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Aug 23, 2016

The anchors on this route are extremely worn out, more than half way. As others have said, definitely DO NOT lower off the anchors. Top rope the route at your own risk.
By Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga
From: Isla Vista, California
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Super fun route, though 10b feels like a little much. Once you get up the guillotine itself, it is one MASSIVE undercling most of the way up. Feet might be a little delicate but I think this route is more like 9+ or 10a. Again though, suuuuper fun route.
By Jamie Umbras
From: Dallas
Feb 24, 2014

Great route, area classic for sure. 10a/b seems like a fair grade. Not to be missed.
By Wei-Li
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 7, 2015

The anchors on this route are worn, one has rope wear almost half way through and the other, maybe about one-third of the way through.
By Jack C. Beckley
From: arcadia ca
Apr 5, 2016

Great climb! the underclinging is really fun! pretty slippery with all the chalk from the mass amounts of actually leaved a stain on the wall...
the right anchor was worn about half way through and the left was good

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