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North Side
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The Guillotine 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Brown (rope solo with some aid)
Page Views: 947
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 2, 2009

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Description 

This route has quite varied climbing on it and is worth doing if you're in the area. Don't let the Guillotine Flake freak you out as you creep your way up to it.

Climb a very short corner to a bolt out right (I added this bolt a year or so later). Make slab moves up and right to another bolt in the funky corner features. Climb straight up to 3rd bolt and a thin face above that is protected by a med cam. Clip 4th bolt and make long moves to a good rail and mantel. Clip last bolt and move up face to the giant guillotine flake. Good gear can be placed behind the flake on the right side (Tim S. was gracious enough to test this cam with a 30 footer...). Move out right and through roof (#4 camelot) to the corner above that is protected by 2 KB pins. Lower from 2 bolt anchor at top of corner.


Location 

Just to the right of The "Glass Eye". Crosses over the diagonaling first pitch of "Chieftains Of Creep" at the Guillotine Flake.


Protection 

light NC rack including #4 camelot



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