The Guillotine 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Bob Siegrist, 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Your judgment awaits.
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Description Between two opposing dihedrals is a seemingly blank face with an intimidating hanging chock stone above. Difficult moves right off the deck posit you on a face with good holds few and far between. A short crux follows clipping the 2nd bolt, but the real business is on the hanging Guillotine itself- don't screw up!
Location A striking line that lies between two opposing dihedrals.
Protection 6 bolts and chain anchors.
Bob Siegrist riding the Guillotine.
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| Comments on The Guillotine |
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By Ross Keller From: Parker, CO Aug 31, 2009 rating: 5.11c
| The right-hand dihedral goes at about 5.8. Gear to 3" 1 or 2 stars. A little dirty. but worth doing. |
By acouncell From: Estes Park, CO Jul 3, 2010
| Definitely felt more like 11c than 11b...but the holds are there and it's a super good route. A little intimidating climbing underneath the guillotine, but it seems solid enough. I placed a #3 C4 at the flake, but it proved unnecessary as the 4th clip is easy to reach from the undercling. Nice work, Siegrists! |
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