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The Guillotine 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob Siegrist, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,398
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Your judgment awaits.

Description 

Between two opposing dihedrals is a seemingly blank face with an intimidating hanging chock stone above. Difficult moves right off the deck posit you on a face with good holds few and far between. A short crux follows clipping the 2nd bolt, but the real business is on the hanging Guillotine itself- don't screw up!


Location 

This is a striking line that lies between two opposing dihedrals.


Protection 

6 bolts and chain anchors.



Photos of The Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
Bob Siegrist riding the Guillotine.
Bob Siegrist riding the Guillotine.
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By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

The right-hand dihedral goes at about 5.8. Gear to 3" 1 or 2 stars. A little dirty. but worth doing.

By acouncell
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 3, 2010

Definitely felt more like 11c than 11b...but the holds are there and it's a super good route. A little intimidating climbing underneath the guillotine, but it seems solid enough. I placed a #3 C4 at the flake, but it proved unnecessary as the 4th clip is easy to reach from the undercling. Nice work, Siegrists!