The Guillotine 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Allen Steck and Chuck Wilts, October 1969 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Jan 27, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Guillotine (5.8 R) climbs the thin flakes dire...
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Description Some fun, easy liebacking on large, sharp flakes (including the guillotine flake) takes you up a right-facing corner. Climb up into a short, well-protected squeeze chimney (crux) and struggle up to a comfortable belay. Runout but easy (5.5) friction moves take you to the top of the rock. Walk off to the right. Some people have avoided the squeeze chimney by a committing, very runout lieback. Done this way, the climb deserves an "R."
Protection standard rack with a few larger pieces
120 foot rap from the bolts....
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| Comments on The Guillotine |
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By Adam Kimmerly
May 26, 2009
| Super fun liebacking that I don't feel is as dangerous as the guidebook suggests. I plugged a #3 in the base of the chimney before committing to the "runout" lieback which is really only about 15'-20' before the next piece. I'll downgrade the danger rating on this one to a PG-13. While you can't place gear at every point on the route, I feel the available placements adequately protect the route. Regardless, this wouldn't be a good first 5.8 for a budding leader. |
By Nikki Schnupp
From: Hudson, Ohio
Feb 20, 2013
| Fun liebacking--and good varied climbing the whole way. Doesn't feel run out. Not plentiful pro--but sufficient. Rapped with a 70m from the slung tree (or bolts?--can't remember)at the top. |
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