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BETA PHOTO: Southeast face.
Number 2 in the diagram below. It's only a "Grunt" for a couple of body lengths, with the rest being a pleasant hand-ish dihedral crack. Ascend the obvious right-leaning OW on the left side of the alcove, between "5.9 Route" and "Alcove 5.9 Route". Either start at the bottom of the OW or undercling a flake to gain access. Either way, the crux is the first couple of bodylengths above the flake. Continue up the dihedral to the same anchor as the 5.9 routes to the left and right.
Camalots #1-5 (including #4.5) will sew it up. The top section would also take some stoppers or hexes if you're so inclined.
|By Dan Battin|
Oct 27, 2004
Interesting climb. Truly a grunt at the begining. I chiped a tooth clenching my jaw on this climb. Every time my toung feels that rough spot on my tooth I remember that climb.
|By Erik Olson|
Nov 8, 2007
I never got to climb this, because when I was belaying Dan this huge rock moved on him and freaked the living crap out of me. So, he cleaned his gear on rap.
|By Tom A.|
From: Co. Springs
Jan 29, 2008
The first ascent of this one was in 1981, thought it was 5.8 maybe 5.8d. Lead by myself with Tom E. seconding. A great starter for awful width leaders.
Aug 24, 2009
Maybe I fit into this crack just right, but I thought that the first few moves might go 5.8. After the initial moves the climb gets much easier.