This Castlewood rock section is close to the parking lot but sees very little traffic. The climbs are short to long and are found on the outside walls as well as in the grotto. The boulder which closes off the grotto provides simple up and down access on its SW side.
To find this rock begin at the Southern Entrance to Castlewood Canyon and park at the second parking lot to the right (Juniper Rock). Take the paved trail E to NE until it meets up with the paved trail going along the rim top. You will see a railing overlooking the canyon; leave the trail and meet up with the cliff tops north of this first railing. Follow the rim top N past crevasses and cracks until you see The Grotto, with its large boulder and few toprope bolts. If you go to a second railing overlook, you have gone too far. The Grotto can be tough to find buy once you find it you will nearly be by yourself, even though the paved trail is very close.
This climb is on the inside of The Grotto and goes up the thin dihedral on the inner N facing wall. Begin the route by climbing up to the dihedral on the face as well as the small roof. The climb follows the dihedral, offering thin jams and pro opportunities....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
We set up TR on this one & the harder one to the left - fun climb, thought it might be a bit more than the 7 rating at least on the semi-reachy move the get into the crack down low, my buddies had more trouble getting into the crack - after that it should be a cake walk. Worth doing, & you'll probably have the place all to yourself. Try the route to the left of this one - it was a bit beyond my capabilities, but fun just the same. There are supposed to be 4 or 5 routes in the grotto, we'll be back for the rest...