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The Grotto (AKA: The Notch)

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Evil Paradise Area 
Grotto End (L. Side) 
Grotto End (R. Side) 
Lower Grotto 
Right Side of Grotto Entrance 
Upper Tier of The Grotto 
Venarete Area 
Winter Capacity Wall 

The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 6, 2006
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Scene from within the Grotto.

Description 

The Grotto is the premium area to climb in Diablo Canyon. It is a slot canyon trimmed out of the upper portion of the south wall. It is filled with large boulders interlaced with fairly lush (for NM) vegetation. While it runs NE to SW the north facing wall is much higher, keeping The Grotto shady for most of the day. The sun peeks through both ends of the canyon during the early morning and late afternoon respectively. However, during January, February, and March an unseasonably warm day is necessary for comfortable climbing.

Climbs in The Grotto range from 5.8 to 12+. The rock ranges from good to great with everything from long and steep to short and slaby. Lots of flat boulders provide spots to lounge, lunch, or both while keeping an eye on fellow climbers.

(Text written by Rick Bradshaw)


Getting There 

Follow the new trail (fall 2012) to The Runway. From The Runway, hike easy terrain west to the Grotto. The new trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.

Alternatively, you can take the old, long-used but steeper, nastier, approach to the Grotto. For this, stay in the main arroyo past Winter Wall and past the Solar Cave and look for a decent trail in the dirt embankment on the left. Take this trail and wind your way up through talus and screen to the top.


49 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',18],['5.11',16],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Grotto (AKA: The Notch):
Class Act   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Sport   Right Side of Grotto Entran...
Good   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Lower Grotto
Waiting to Procrastinate   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport   Lower Grotto
Bong Crack (aka Surficial Scratch)   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Right Side of Grotto Entran...
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad   Evil Paradise Area
Evil Paradise   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 80'   Evil Paradise Area
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 90'   Evil Paradise Area
Evil   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Lower Grotto
Guillotine Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Upper Tier of The Grotto
Affirmative Action   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport   Lower Grotto
Chopping Block   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Grotto
Woogie's Wild Ride   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Right Side of Grotto Entran...
Bedeviled   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Grotto
Better Late than Never   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Lower Grotto
Bush in a Blender   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Grotto
Trailer Park Girls   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport   Grotto End (R. Side)
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Grotto End (R. Side)
Venarete   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 75'   Venarete Area
Browse More Classics in The Grotto (AKA: The Notch)

Featured Route For The Grotto (AKA: The Notch)
Lucifer's Hammer drill is #11

Lucifer's Hammer Drill 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Evil Paradise Area
The beautiful blunt arete/face to the right of Sunday Bloody Sunday. I have never redpointed this route, but it is a great line on perfect rock, with a bouldery crux and mid-height and incredible exposure. A classic for those studly enough to climb the grade....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) Slideshow Add Photo
Overview of The Grotto (adapted from Rick Bradshaw's webpage).
BETA PHOTO: Overview of The Grotto (adapted from Rick Bradshaw...
Evening light on the upper end of the Grotto, right side.
Evening light on the upper end of the Grotto, righ...
Beguin in the Grotto.
Beguin in the Grotto.
Comments on The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) Add Comment
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By Mannie
From: Santa fe, NM
Aug 21, 2012

found a small set of cams at the grotto left end! Right at the belay ledge, a few camalots, c3's, and an alien or two. Exciting to find but I know i'd be pissed if I forgot this stuff. Lemme know, mlopez364@gmail.com
good luck!

By Aaron Miller
Sep 26, 2012

Follow the new trail to the Runway Wall. Then hike easy terrain around to the Grotto. Starts in the arroyo just across from the trail to the Winter Wall/Cave areas.