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The Grotto is the premium area to climb in Diablo Canyon. It is a slot canyon trimmed out of the upper portion of the south wall. It is filled with large boulders interlaced with fairly lush (for NM) vegetation. While it runs NE to SW the north facing wall is much higher, keeping The Grotto shady for most of the day. The sun peeks through both ends of the canyon during the early morning and late afternoon respectively. However, during January, February, and March an unseasonably warm day is necessary for comfortable climbing.
Follow the new trail (fall 2012) to The Runway. From The Runway, hike easy terrain west to the Grotto. The new trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.
49 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Grotto (AKA: The Notch)
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Grotto (AKA: The Notch):
Bong Crack (aka Surficial Scratch) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90' Right Side of Grotto Entran...
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60' Grotto End (R. Side)
Featured Route For The Grotto (AKA: The Notch)
Guillotine Crack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Upper Tier of The Grotto
Guillotine Crack is the among the finest of the crack climbs in Diablo, with perfect jams through pumpy cruxes. Great positioning high above the canyon with good gear makes this climb worth it. It might be found hard at 5.10, especially if you're not tuned into Indian Creek-style crack climbing. While the route's name is ominous, the Guillotine Flake for which it was named was removed from the route long ago.Only the excellent 2nd pitch is described here. The original first pitch is i...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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