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Lower Buttress
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The Groove 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 475'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Any time its not really h
Page Views: 3,113
Submitted By: Greg Gibson on Oct 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
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A typical move--lay off the crack, palm the left w...
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Description 

If you idea of a good time is is Dike hike'n this is a great route. I personally didn't mind the crack line but didn't care a lot for the mantel moves over dikes for the sole reason of not being able to get a good rhythm going up a nice crack.


Location 

To the left of the Farce about 20'.


Protection 

Standard rack of nuts & cams. Don't remember any fixed bolts other than belay anchors.



Photos of The Groove Slideshow Add Photo
In some places you can foot jam the crack and stem the groove.
In some places you can foot jam the crack and stem...
Looking down the fun and easy Pitch 2
Looking down the fun and easy Pitch 2
When the crack runs out, keep going on easier dike climbing to a very comfortable bolt belay on a huge dike.
When the crack runs out, keep going on easier dike...
getting in The Groove
getting in The Groove
The hardest move on P2 is this awkward first move right off of the belay where you have to struggle a bit to stand on the high dike.
The hardest move on P2 is this awkward first move ...
An excellent 35m Pitch!
An excellent 35m Pitch!
Comments on The Groove Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 30, 2013
By Greg Gibson
From: Napa, Ca
Oct 4, 2006

This follows a crack/corner. There are pretty big dikes which you mantle. Some strectchy moves. Bolts at top of first pitch. Second pitch is short and real easy but little to no protection.

Gear up the Mid size c-4's

By Blitzo
Oct 18, 2006

A great route and a fun free-solo!

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 9, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I don't think I'd call the pro on this pg13, it's pretty good. all the moves on p1 are protectable, and p2 is super easy (and still has some pro.)

Not as good as surrealistic pillar, but still a very fun climb.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 27, 2007

The first move is 10-something if you do the obvious and jam it. Fortunately, after some consultation with ground control, I figured out the easier way. I have some sympathy with the "dike and hike" comment above. Although I enjoyed the route, I found myself getting a little annoyed at having to do the same move over and over: feet and hands on big dike, but crack more or less useless and the right wall concave. I typically would lean way left off the crack, palm the left wall, smear the right wall, high step onto the high dike, and then struggle to rock onto it. The much easier second pitch is worth doing if only for the view of the main wall above. We had never been up there, and it was a gorgeous fall day.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The rating on this route seems a little bit dependent on height. The start was definitely easier for my 6' partner as he was able to make the initial move straight on and hit the big jam up high directly as he smeared up in one move, thus allowing him to put his foot in the giant pod with a secure hand jam. At 5'6", I had to do two tenuous smearing moves in a left layback position off the ground, shift my balance straight, then gaston the two slopey edges of the wide pod (effortful) in order to hike one foot up into it before I could stand up and reach that jam. Kinda hard! A spotter is a nice thing to have in such case.

The rest of the route is quite well protected.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Couple things about starting this route...

It may be that it is more difficult if you are short. It is one move of 5.8 for me at 5'10", then the rest of the climb is 5.7 or easier.

However, if you're starting out doing tenuous smears, you missed a key foot on the face, that isn't height dependent.

Also, if you're leading this route and nervous about the opening moves, you can preprotect it. I did this years ago in my beginner days. You can place a small cam over your head while standing on the ground that protects the move.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

caughtinside wrote:
However, if you're starting out doing tenuous smears, you missed a key foot on the face, that isn't height dependent. Also, if you're leading this route and nervous about the opening moves, you can preprotect it. You can place a small cam over your head while standing on the ground that protects the move.


Ah, yes, certainly I did get that key foothold (only way I could hold that layback position), but when you have to make 2-3 additional moves, it soon feels a bit tenuous.

As for pre-placing a cam over your head, no, you cannot do this if you cannot reach said placement; don't think I didn't try! My 6' partner was able to place it, however.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

hmm, just did it again the other day. because of the sloping ground at the start, you can lean in from uphill and slot the cam if you wish. It was around chest height for me from up there.

By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Single 60 m rope just long enough to bail from the P1 bolts. Supertopo says the bolts are 120' off the deck which is probably not correct. I'd say closer to 98' as both ends of the rope barely make it to the ground.

Agree with other posts on the importance of placing a piece from the ground to protect the first two moves and that I often found myself lying back off the left side of the crack.

Bring a bunch of small pro. You'll need it.

BTW - I'm tired of all the short guy whining! Y'all will make it up just fine :)

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 24, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Whoa, daniel, I am neither short nor whining. Wtf.

I realize now that c.i. and I are talking about different placements. Yes, I can reach the one he refers to, but it's not really high enough to keep you from hitting the rocks below, plus I wanted to put my fingers there, not gear. I'm referring to the #1 jam up higher, which is where my partner could put a cam (but I couldn't).

Tried the move unroped in my approach shoes the other day with a straight-on gaston off the pod, and it felt much easier than before, no laybacking required. I wasn't in as good shape two months ago (early days coming back from an injury that required a year off). However, the rating off the ground still remains a bit height dependent imo.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

First half of p1 has a lot of 5.8 moves, in between huge, hands-free rests. The crux 5.8 move is definitely off the ground and it is not that far away from a huge jug, 10 feet up.

Second pitch is definitely "R" rated, but the climbing is super easy 4th and 5th class and maybe one, 5.6'ish move just above the belay.

By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Jun 7, 2010

I'm 5'10" and have a hard time with the first move -- for whatever reason I pretty much have to lieback it. Five years ago I followed it and had the damndest time until I did that.

When I led it today I reached up and placed a yellow (#2) C3 before leaving the ground and that gave me peace of mind enough to pull the lieback. YMMV

By T_jones
From: Salty Lake
Aug 20, 2010

I feel like admins should leave their personal thoughts for the comment board and keep the route description objective!

By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Fun moves, great free solo.

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Jul 5, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I found this route pretty fun. I don't get all the griping about mantling--I got into a pretty good and easy rhythm of mantling on the dikes. Lots of no hands stances to place gear.

I guess if you're looking for a straight in crack climb, yeah, you'll be disappointed. I think you'll be disappointed by a lot of the routes at the Leap!

Don't let the second pitch intimidate you, yeah it's runout, but if you got through the first pitch OK then all the moves will be super easy for you. Good mental training for something a little spicier like Surrealistic Pillar.

By bergbryce
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 22, 2011

(beta alert!) I'm 5'8" and if you find the foothold for the left foot on the face, the start is 5.8. I didn't find it the first time I pulled up into that slot.

There were 3 or 4 mantles on the first pitch that were way more heads up than anything on the 2nd pitch which seemed really casual.
This route was way better than I expected.

By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

P1 was the only really worth pitch. Kind of tricky getting off the ground, but very straight forward afterwards.

By Mitchell Rhodes
Apr 11, 2013

On-sight free-solo. Solid 5.8 exposed move up high.

By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Apr 11, 2013

^^^ uh oh, more needless bragging! Call the MP police!

By SRG
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Meh, I was not really taken by this route. Nothing spectacular. Didn't find the first 5.8 move difficult. Just put my foot in and jumped up and grabbed a hold. Go for it, you are not that far off the ground yet. Then comes a bunch of 5.7 that seemed like boring climbing to me. Linked this up with Traveller's Buttress so that made it more worth while.

By Cimbing Ivy
Aug 28, 2013

this is a route for those who are into mantling galore: long with good rest, plenty of gear placement (P1) and more than one crux. i didn't do my homework before getting on it and wasn't thrilled. i also did this after leading Corrugation Corner so any climb would seem uneventful i guess.

the move off the ground is awkward but didn't find it the crux. i'm south of 5'8" so reaching for the good hand jam up high is not an option for me. did not layback it either. after much fiddling, i pulled the move by finger-locking the small flaring crack straight-in, smearing the key small knob to throw an insane right high-step into the shoulder-height pod.

gear beta spoiler alert: 0.75 camelots and down plus nuts. i placed one red camelot but you can go without it.

By Dan Mathews
Dec 30, 2013

I thought the first 2 moves were particularly more difficult than the rest of the climb and harder than 5.8. As an East Coast climber it reminded me of the first few moves of Conns East Direct at Seneca. The climb was rated 5.6... except for the first two 5.8 moves :)

Don't let them intimidate you. The rest of the climb is easier and a lot of fun.

This was the first move of my first climb at the Leap, and I was really surprised when I almost came off there.