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The Grendel

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Academic Freedom 
Beowulf 
Beyond the Pale 
Daneland 
Exit Stage Right 
Leitner Route 
Monster Mash, The 
Mother Grendel 
Pebble In The Sky 
Pierced Lip Lock 
Strong Arm Tactics 

The Grendel 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,000'
Lat, Long: 39.87665, -105.41914 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,500
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on May 8, 2011
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Guidebooks (1)
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BETA PHOTO: The Grendel.
State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Grendel looms over the surrounding area from high on the ridge, behind and above Squaw Spire. This crag has highly featured, weathered alpine granite and has yielded several quality sport climbs. From below, it looks bigger than it turns out to be, yet a 70 meter rope is recommended as several of the routes go the distance.


L->R: 

West Face.

A. Beyond the Pale, 8+, 1p, 125', gear.

Southwest Face

B. Beowulf, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Daneland, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
D. Pebble In The Sky, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
E.
F. Pierced Lip Lock, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. Academic Freedom, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.

Southeast Face

H. Exit Stage Right, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Mother Grendel, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
J. Leitner Route, 10+, 1p, 45', bolts.
K. Strong Arm Tactics, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
L. The Monster Mash, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.


Getting There 

Park in the Aspen Meadows campground, and walk back out the entry road. Cross Gap Road and enter the woods directly across from and in line with the campground entry road. Once you encounter the powerline road in the woods, look for cairns marking an old road heading into the forest. Follow old roads, keeping an eye out for cairns, until you find your way up the hill to the saddle area surrounding The Squaw. Follow cairns up the hillside below The Grendel to the crag. The approach takes about 45 minutes.


Regulations 

Eds. Please note that after discussion with GGCSP, the Grendel appears to be within Golden Gate Canyon State Park and thus is subject to its regulations. Hence, any new fixed hardware requires Park approval. However, further investigation of park boundaries could impact this. Thank you.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Grendel:
Mother Grendel   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Daneland   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Leitner Route   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in The Grendel

Featured Route For The Grendel
Pierced Lip Lock.

Pierced Lip Lock 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  CO : Golden : ... : The Grendel
This route stands out for me as the best at the cliff: fun, sustained climbing on great rock in a beautiful setting, requiring a variety of techniques. Easy climbing leads past the first bolt into a steep dihedral capped by roofs. Tread lightly at the pierced lip and try not to break it or we'll have to rename the route "Busted Lip"....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Grendel Slideshow Add Photo
The Grendel, July 21, 2011.
The Grendel, July 21, 2011.
Green =  Beowulf, 11-. <br />Red = Daneland, 10. <br />Blue = Pebble In The Sky, 11+. <br />(All routes are located at the West end of the South face.)
Green = Beowulf, 11-.
Red = Daneland, 10.
Blue = ...
The Grendel, July 21, 2011.
The Grendel, July 21, 2011.
The right side of the southwest face.  The furthest right route is Academic Freedom, 12.
The right side of the southwest face. The furthes...
The left side of the southwest face.  The V slot on the left is Dane Land.
The left side of the southwest face. The V slot o...
The new trail head sign for the Grendel, courtesy of Golden Gate State Park.
BETA PHOTO: The new trail head sign for the Grendel, courtesy ...
Comments on The Grendel Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Rolofson
Jul 19, 2011

For complete, detailed information to the approach and all the routes on this crag, see the final pages of my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs". The Grendel was a well kept secret for many years. It has a brilliant 100 foot 5.9, a few good 5.11s, and two 5.12s.

By Andrew S.
Jul 27, 2011

You simply cannot go wrong with the climbing here. If the approach doesn't get you psyched, the climbs will. Looking forward to getting up there again real soon.

By Jeffeos
From: CordryCorner
Aug 1, 2011

Sport climbing at Golden Gate State Park is under review. Access and bolting are the primary concerns. With any luck, a climbing management plan will be adopted that will incorporate all of the existing routes.

By ErikaNW
Jun 2, 2012

From the description 'keep an eye out for cairns', I thought the trail might be hard to find - quite the opposite. There are creative and artistically placed cairns that made the hike extra enjoyable! Thank you to the cairn builder....

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 25, 2012

Whomever has done the trail work here, awesome job! Been to a lot of remote ares that do not even compare. We made the approach in 30 minutes, first time, and with a 6 year old.

By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Jun 25, 2012

Thanks Kevin,
Glad to see the trail is being used. When we developed the crag, one concern was to establish a consistent route to curtail wandering in the woods and the social trails that result.