Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Climb the shallow corner/seam until it bends left and join the arete. Make a key placement and balance up to clip the first bolt. The crux is in this vicinity.
One more bolt and the #4 Camalot will take you to the rubbly ledge at the dead tree.
Pitch 2 steps left and up arete into corner. Aim for the upper arete, clipping the final bolt to get there. Climb straight up the arete, protecting in horizontals.
Start from the optional belay stance at the end of the 5.9 climbing on the Green Spur.
RPs to #4 Camalot. Could probably get by with nothing bigger than a #2 although I placed the #4 on both pitches. HBs, C3s, small Aliens are key. Consider ballnuts, I think a good one may go where I had a very shallow C3. This climb could be R rated without the right tiny gear or the skill to place it.
By Garrett Bales From: Lake City, CO Mar 14, 2011 rating: 5.11b/c6c+23VIII-E4 6a R
Maybe "Eldo 5.10", pretty thin. Felt one more bolt could have been placed lower on the crux. Fun, spicy, exposed feeling climbing. Some of the thin edges are brittle and will clean in time. Additional description: Variation of P4 of Green Spur. Pass the big roof and instead of climbing the standard large dihedral/corner section on the right, climb the arete/face on the left/straight up to the dead tree belay.
By Ross Keller From: Parker, CO Mar 21, 2011 rating: 5.11b/c6c+23VIII-E4 6a R
It's a long way (20' or so) from the "key" placement (a good stopper) to the 1st bolt, and you will encounter crux climbing over less-than-ideal stone over that stretch. Above the stopper and below the bolt, I didn't see much in the way of gear that was worth fiddling with. Given that, I think that an otherwise worthy climb will not become popular enough to clean up from a 2 star to a 3 star route. That's too bad, because it's really a nice, inspired addition.
This is a nice addition to the area. Before the first bolt, the climbing is 11a and you can place good small/medium gear. Lowe Balls would be nice to have but not mandatory. The key gear is about 7 feet below the first bolt - a blue alien and two small offset brass nuts just below below that. The second pitch is also very good.
My buddy and I both bailed off that first pitch due to hard climbing over uninspiring gear below the first bolt. Too bad because it's a stellar pitch (we did TR it). Now I think I know what the "key placement" is (not the stopper 20 feet below that Ross mentioned; the gear he thought wasn't worth fiddling with...and he may be right), but we didn't have that piece of gear at the time. Still, I'm not sure how excited I'll be to climb above that piece in the future--pretty thin gear, and a long way from what I'd consider solid gear. The second (last) pitch is great though! Don't miss that one. It's maybe 5.10a and makes a spectacular finish for Green Spur.