The Green Adjective
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Another perfect spring day in LCC
This is the perfect thin seam crack that runs up the Perhaps Area wall. It starts on top of a nice, sunny, flat perch called the "Sun Deck Boulder". Start either with a direct 5.10a start (spicy with tricky pro, bring your small stuff). Alternatively, traverse in 15' up on a nice foot shelf, but this misses out on some good climbing. Work up the crack placing mostly small stoppers and cams. The climbing gets easier higher up. Anchors are on a shelf 80' up.
There are two more pitches to this climb, but most people rap after the first. I haven't climbed them, but pitch 2 is supposed to be 5.6, and pitch 3 is a 5.7 squeeze chimney if you should want to try them.
Very small gear. 2 sets of nuts and offsets would be nice. Also, very small cams are helpful.
The beautiful Green A seam!
Celebrating my 39th birthday last year in the only...
Making the moves on the Green A just above the 5.1...
Lee seeks for friction while he moves his hands up...
Green A on the cover of Climbing July 2005.
Casey climbing Green Adjective
almost to the top of P.1
Me on the 5-10 start. Protected by a orange metol...
Green A goodness
The 3rd pitch OW on The Green A
The manky anchor on top of pitch two. As Nathan m...
Blood, Sweat and tears....followed by a Jamba Juic...
I found a larger pic of the Climbing Magazine July...
Green A classic tips
I climbed this variation to the 3rd pitch back in ...
das craiger cruisin the green adjective 5.9 ****
|Comments on The Green Adjective
|By Vince Romney|
Jun 3, 2004
The direct start protects nicely with a #1 stopper or similar. It's only one move of .10a, with a flat landing if you slip while placing the stopper.
|By Vince Romney|
Jun 3, 2004
...almost forgot. Link this with MA#1 and you have a highly entertaining 3-pitch climb with seam, layback, hand, and offwidth techniques. Enjoy!
|By Leroy Fielding|
Jun 22, 2004
Beautiful line!!!! I led this for the first time a few days back, just amazing. The 10a start isn't too bad, but it almost felt harder at the 5.9 crux. Can't wait to do this one again.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Aug 4, 2004
I only give this 2 stars well for my own hidden reasons. I am with-holding the final "possible" star until I do the route in it's entirety. Alright!! I will tell you my reasons. The climbing wasn't varied enough and the exposure wasn't present. Like I said let me climb the entire route and it may become 3 *'s
Otherwise an exciting climb. The original start is fun , but the direct start is not much harder.
OUTDATED COMMENT. SEE NEXT!!!
|By Nathan Fisher|
Apr 3, 2005
Alright, it gets three stars. But only if you do all three pitches.
Pitch 2 goes from the anchors up the easy scramble, past a set of anchors on the left (Base of Meat Puppet), and up to and past another set of anchors (Prepositional Phrase). It continues up, to the left of the tree around the right of the prow, and up the crack with a green face to the right to a 3 bolt (2 old, 1 new) anchor. The best part of this pitch are the two right-facing cracks. The first being just below the Prepositional Phrase anchors, the second crack being green face crack. Pitch 3 is a fun (lol) squeeze/offwidth. The trick on this pitch is to find gear. We placed a red Metolius at the base of the crack, a #2 Camalot( our largest) just before the crack deepens and widens, and a small nut in the horizontal crack on the left wall. Bring really big gear, or run it out. The other question is do you face right or left. Both my partner and I did it differently.
The anchors at the top are again 3 bolt (2 bad + 1 good). We left a sling as all slings were dead. We then rapped, with a 60-meter, to the east aiming for the Prepositional Phrase anchors. We were about 10 feet short, so be careful or better yet, rappel to the north and the other 3-bolt anchor, and rap off that one to gain Prepositional Phrase's anchors.
Definitely beware of the old bolts. Oh, and also, the piton on the final pitch is absent (this is where the small nut went). Finally, it was very wet still in the squeeze.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 30, 2005
Definately 3 stars in my book, especially if you skip the last pitches! Mislabled as "Serenity Crack" on the cover of Climbing magazine's Trad issue (the Natural line) a few months back. I love this route, I think it is so pretty, and always a classic worth doing every spring and fall. Thin nuts, thin feet, thin jams...OH YEAH, this is what LCC is all about!
|By vincent pierce|
Sep 20, 2005
Looking up at this thin crack you think "no way"... but somehow there are just enough fingertip holds and fingerjams to get you up. It actually protects fairly well with little nuts. One of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon.
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
Beautiful line. There used to be a back breaking boulder to land on at the bottom. glad it's gone. excellent finger tips and slab feets as i've t.r.'d it w/out touching the crack and bare foot using only the crack. there's a good blue tcu spot right off the ground makes a good directional to keep all those tiny stoppers in the crack
Feb 26, 2006
Do yourself a favor and don't bother placing gear down low. Boulder out the 10a to the toe rail rest about 12 feet up...place a few good nuts, and blast it, placing great nuts. 3 stars...anything less is robbing this gorgeous slab climb.
|By Matt Chan|
From: Denver, CO
Jul 24, 2006
Not recommended in 105 degree heat. We thought it was going to be in the shade most of the morning, but damn were we wrong. Greasy shoe rubber and sweat pouring from everywhere made this seam quite a humbling experience. Lesson learned.
Sep 9, 2006
A lot of fun!
|By Casey Jenen|
Jul 23, 2008
This is a great climb and I would highly recommend doing the .10 start it makes it just that much better and it is only one move of 5.10. Pro is great climbing is great just a awesome route.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.10a PG13
great route- definitely spicy if you want gear down low. bring the small stoppers, dont bother with anything bigger than a yellow tcu.
From: Park City, Ut.
Jun 12, 2009
Wow, great finger locks! It's all small stuff, and good slab feet for placements. I didn't place anything bigger than a # 7 BD stopper a bit higher up. Amen on the directional at the bottom...a must do.
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 25, 2010
Very nice climb! Slippery face for you feet, so be careful. It is a lot easier for people with smaller fingers, hence only piton scars make the finger locks. Bring ONLY small gear, no big gear needed, as I said only piton scars make this crack climbable. Well worth doing
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 9, 2010
Only did the first pitch, but that was enough for me that night. Had some passive gear pull out leaving me very exposed. This is a great line.
Jun 15, 2011
Concerning the third pitch, since I did this recently, having never done it before.
It is described as 5.7 in the book... but that is definately an old-school, LCC "5.7" from "back in the day. The last pitch is a fat crack at the bottom (hand to fist), then it hits a ~5" OW section that is sloped so it isn't too bad to get standing on. At this point you can protect with a fingerish sized piece in a horizontal. This puts you at the crux of the pitch which is a slightly bulging 6" crack that you have to get out and around before sliding into a squeeze chimney. After getting above the bulge, and into the squeeze, I could reach fairly far back in the crack due to being thin, could probably use a 4" (or maybe even a 3" piece) but if not thin, you'll need a 6" or 5" cam to protect this stretch. I did this w/o the cams since I didn't bring them and had foolishly used my 3 AND 4" pieces lower down. At this point, if you have some OW experience, you should feel fairly secure in this squeeze, arm-barring, chickenwinging, and heel-toeing/knee opposition to the top anchors.
If 5.7 is your max trad, don't expect to send this, IMO.
At the platform at the base of the 3rd pitch is a set of 3 bolts leading off into Green A gully. A 70m will actually get you to the gully floor, even though it doesn't look like it will. If you have a 60m, there is a horn slung not too far from the bottom with maybe 5 old slings and several rap rings, enabling you to get down in 2 raps.
|By Matt Brodhead|
From: Logan, UT
Jun 27, 2011
If finger locks and slab footwork are your thing, this climb is an ultra classic.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 11, 2011
Add onto Spri's beta. You CAN rap east into the gulley over goodro's nightmare with a 60m rope in one go. land 10 ft up the low angle slab to the climbers right of goodro's and you are all set.
|By Fall Guy|
Dec 5, 2011
awesome, must give thanks to all the pin scars. I miss this monthly "must do" climb. what I want to know is how many pins were driven in to make this climb so nice? 100s? a 1000?
Jul 28, 2012
My friend suggested I wait till it went into the shade to try this one. I'm glad I listened. Only did the first pitch, but it is a stellar one. No gear worth placing until the toe rail rest, however the protection is great for the rest of the pitch.