The Grecian Highway
|Type: ||Sport, 3 pitches, 285'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Jason Stevens, Jared Nielson|
|Page Views: ||1,978|
|Submitted By: ||shawn on Jun 25, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Maura Hahnenberger nearing the end of pitch two on...
The roof on the second pitch is the crux. The hold are there, just get your head in the game. This is a fun climb just for the overall exposure and the great views of the canyon. You can see everything from the top of this climb.
The first pitch starts left of the column and follow meandering bolts up a rib for about 185' to the overhang. The second pitch pulls the overhang and follows big jugs up the flake for about 80'. Rappel the route to get off. Requires two 60M ropes.
First pitch takes 20 quick draws to the chain belay. Second pitch takes about 10 quick draws to the chains.
Christian and Shawn at the top of the first pitch.
Christian almost to the top of the first pitch.
belaying at the top of the third pitch
Shawn on The Grecian Highway
Rapping The Grecian Highway.
Photo: Corey Gargan...
View into Maple Canyon from the top of The Grecian...
Starting the second pitch
|Comments on The Grecian Highway
|By doug haller|
May 30, 2007
P2 reminded me of High Exposure or Son of Eazy O in the Gunks.
|By Lee Jensen|
Aug 17, 2009
Great multipitch climb to the rim of the canyon.
To find the route: When you are standing in the entrance to the parking lot with the toilet, turn and face down the road. The route is across the river on the face to the left of the buttress to your right. Walk down the road about thirty feet to where you can access the river easily. Walk through the grass looking for a faint trail that follows the river to your left. Follow this trail. It becomes more defined as you go. Cross the river and follow the trail to the base of the wall. The belay area is a really nice large cleared flat spot with an obvious line of bolts above.
|By darrell hodges|
May 15, 2010
Second pitch is more like 16 quickdraws. Not that it matters.
|By Jason Stevens|
From: Ephraim, UT
Sep 10, 2010
On 9.9.2010 Dave Larsen and I climbed Grecian Highway and did some anchor work to improve the route.
Improvement #1 is the addition of a set of rappel anchors, splitting pitch one into two pitches and making the entire route climbable with a single 60M rope. Should have been done when I did the FA back in the 90's. They are located at bolt 10 right of "Pandoras Box", the shrub-filled hole on the wall left of the climb. I had originally planned to put the anchors in the "box" but decided to put them on the bolt line instead. This is a better setup because you can climb the entire route with a "standard" rack of 12 quickdraws. Who comes to Maple with 21 quickdraws, anyway (the way it used to be)? If you do carry an El Cap rack, just blast past the anchors, link P1 and P2 and rap the whole route with a single 60M cord.
Improvement #2 is the addition of 2 bolts to the first pitch and the re-alignment of several other bolts with the natural climbing line. There were at least two bolts out in la-la land (way off route) that created bad rope drag and a few bolts that were off-route. There were also a couple of runout sections with tricky footwork and nasty fall potential into corners or big cobbles. That was fixed as well.
A local climber once told me that Grecian Highway was "-1 star on the first pitch, +4 stars on the second pitch, a solid 3 star route!". These improvements should give the route the reputation and attention it deserves. The route is now three pitches as follows:
P1** 5.8, 25M
P2** 5.7, 28M
P3**** 5.9, 30M
From: Woods Cross, UT
Sep 17, 2010
Thanks so much for the route improvements. Having climbed it both before and after I can really appreciate the changes in bolts and really like the additional rap station so I didn't have to haul up a second rope. I concur that the second pitch is 4 star with fantastic exposure and a killer view. Thanks again!
From: West Valley, UT
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Climbing this route from the bottom all the way to the top without stopping is so much fun. I did this by having my friend climb the first pitch and then I top-roped the first pitch and lead right into the second pitch. 300 feet of non-stop climbing.
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Climbed this last week and absolutely loved the 3rd pitch. The first 2 pitches are extremely dirty. Maybe it just needs more traffic. P3 is definitely worth the time & effort. The heady crux roof up high is awesome.
From: Missola, MT
Jun 25, 2012
The first pitch on this route is the only thing that keeps it from being a classic; it was dirty and I found it a little awkward. The second pitch is a fun traverse on big, safe holds. The last pitch is absolutely a 4 star 5.9 in my opinion. Pull two distinct bulges, one right after the other and blast to the top on monster holds. Don't miss it!