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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Routes Sorted
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Abracadabra TR 
Burning Chrome T 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
Doris Gets Her Oats T 
Dream Weaver T 
Everybody Route, The T 
Fanning the Flame T 
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 
Grand Course, The T 
Grandmother's Challenge T 
Great Zot Variation A., The T 
Great Zot, The T 
Green Hornet, The T,S 
Green Slab Direct T 
Green Slab-Original Route T 
Green Sleeves T 
Green Spur, The T 
Heddie La Rue T 
Hot Links T 
Hot Spur, The T 
Lost in Space T 
Maverick T 
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 
Northumberland Crack T 
Paris Girl S 
Piece of the Sun  T 
Please Close Lid T 
Rabbits From Hats T 
Razors to Rubble T 
Rebuffat's Arete T 
Rewritten T 
Roof Wall, The T 
Silver Raven T 
Spur of the Moment T 
Sunstar T 
Swanson Arete T 
Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 

The Great Zot Variation A. 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: NA
Page Views: 1,354
Submitted By: Adam Hicks` on Aug 12, 2003

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  • Description 

    To get to this variation, follow the first four pitches of the Great Zot as Rossiter describes it and not as it is described here (from the left angling hand crack continue straight left to a big tree in a gully instead of cutting back right to the tree belay below Zot Face). The variation is a different last pitch to this route, and is described well by Rossiter.

    P5: From the big tree belay in the gully, climb up the gully a few feet past the tree until you spy above you on the face a crack-like weakness. This is the route. Rossiter illustrates it as being a double crack at the top, and indeed it is, but the features can hardly be called cracks. The pitch passes a piton with a ring about half-height, and finishes just right of the large tower that rewritten finishes on.

    I don't give this variation many stars because although it has exciting exposure differentiating from the traditional Great Zot finish and adds to the overall quality of airiness that the fourth pitch delivers, it is very very loose. In the so-called cracks are flakes just waiting to be yarded on. It is definitely a matter of opinion, and this pitch delivers its' full dose of adventure, but finding good placements can be interesting at times. At one point there is an easy offwidth section within which lies a large loose block that would sever your rope at the very least. Be careful, and have fun.

    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack; there is one fixed pin on this route.


    Comments on The Great Zot Variation A. Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 13, 2003

    I'm not sure this variation needs to be added as a separate route. Perhaps add it as a comment under the Great Zot maybe?

    In any case, I've done this, as well as just about every other Great Zot variation while soloing in that area, and can't recommend much about this variation. Avoid it, as it's the worst way to finish the Great Zot. My favorite way of finishing the Great Zot is the wide crack that forms the right side of the tower of Rebuffet's Arete. Fun, mostly solid rock, and pretty mellow for wide-5.8.
    By Adam Hicks`
    Aug 14, 2003

    I was actually going to add that as another variation, but the site went haywrie. PRobably a good recommendation to not have this as a whole route in itself, but seeing as how The Great Zot isn't described on this site at all, except for the beginning up to the Zot Face finish, I thought it seemed worthy as an addition.

    It isn't good, but it's better than the standard finish, so I gave it one star. The finish you've described is the best finish to The Great Zot, deserving of three stars with some pretty spectacular fun!