Maybe it was the rain, maybe it was just the entrada sandstone, but I thought this climb was really unappealing. However, I will still give it a star because the line is indeed attractive and Stewart Green's (Falcon Publishing) "Rock Climbing Utah" guide calls it "excellent."Head to the obvious blocks on the Great Wall (as my partner pointed out, they look like a stop-action photo of a large block slowing toppling over to the left), and to the crack in the dihedral to a three bolt anchor....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
To approach these climbs park near the bridge that crosses Courthouse Wash.
Hike up Courthouse Wash until you reach the prominent buttress which hosts climbs like "Chinese Eyes". Cut right at/near the base of the wall and the climbs are obvious.
Do NOT tromp through the "field" of crypto from one of the pullouts after crossing Courthouse Wash. There is no established trail and the washes are sparse and scattered. Much easier to simply hike up CW.