This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A large batholith with single and two pitch routes on very clean granite. The south side has seen most of the development. Collins/White Lander Rock has information on many of the older established routes, but there are quite a few newer routes not in that guide.
Getting There
The only legal approach is through Agate Flats road and behind Lankin Dome, passing through Point of Rocks, and then continuing on to the GSF. You pass by Haystack on the way there.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Great Stone Face:
A short, burly crack with 3 distinct sections. Begin in an overhanging A-frame and execute a funky boulder problem on flared hands and a knee bar to gain a jug in the crack. Next hand traverse out a welded seam, following 2 bolts. This is the technical crux, and is crimpy with sequential feet. The third part of the route is a very flared hand crack with crappy thin hand jambs and slippery feet. ...[more]Browse More Classics in WY
The approach described above involves trespassing on the McIntosh Ranch and using a private bridge constructed and maintained by the McIntosh family. The ranch has asked repeatedly that climbers refrain from using their road and instead drive around and approach through Lankin Gap. Sweetwater Rocks is a sensitive area, please respect land ownership.
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