The Great Gazoo
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12a/b [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Sartin Tom Murphy, Sept. 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Murf on Aug 5, 2009|
The one and only
A interesting face climb that climbs a fairly direct line up the West Face.
Start in the right side of the flakes system (what I would consider right of the start of Switchbacks) and climb directly up to the bush on the small ledge. From the bush climb straight up past 2 bolts (crux) to another small ledge. Follow the ledge to the right, then up and left past an overlap to a bolt. Continue up past two more bolts (.11-) to the ledge system that crosses the face (this same ledge continues all the way to The Quarry/Blankety Blank anchor). From there, climb a short headwall with a bolt to the left side of a roof. Tricky moves protected by a fixed pin lead to a 2 bolt anchor.
To descend you need two ropes. Alternately, one can just reach the anchor on the first pitch of Fred with a 60m rope.
The crux is a devious move, best done in the shade, followed by a powerful pull on thin edges.
The pitch starts somewhat the same as Switchbacks, and can be identified by the bush located on a ledge about 25' up.
6 bolts, 1 pin, a few finger size pieces, and a large piece.
|Comments on The Great Gazoo
Aug 5, 2009
The grade is tentative,due to the fact that I don't know if it has seen a second ascent.