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West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)
Routes Sorted
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Angel's Fright T 
Barney TR 
Bedrock T 
Betty T 
Blankety Blank T 
Cary Granite T 
Dino T 
Fred T 
Fright Night T 
Great Gazoo, The T 
Human Fright T 
Mr. Slate T 
Quarry, The T 
Switchbacks T 
Switchbacks, Direct Start T 
Twinkletoes T 

The Great Gazoo 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Sartin Tom Murphy, Sept. 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Murf on Aug 5, 2009

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The one and only

Description 

A interesting face climb that climbs a fairly direct line up the West Face.

Start in the right side of the flakes system (what I would consider right of the start of Switchbacks) and climb directly up to the bush on the small ledge. From the bush climb straight up past 2 bolts (crux) to another small ledge. Follow the ledge to the right, then up and left past an overlap to a bolt. Continue up past two more bolts (.11-) to the ledge system that crosses the face (this same ledge continues all the way to The Quarry/Blankety Blank anchor). From there, climb a short headwall with a bolt to the left side of a roof. Tricky moves protected by a fixed pin lead to a 2 bolt anchor.

To descend you need two ropes. Alternately, one can just reach the anchor on the first pitch of Fred with a 60m rope.

The crux is a devious move, best done in the shade, followed by a powerful pull on thin edges.

Location 

The pitch starts somewhat the same as Switchbacks, and can be identified by the bush located on a ledge about 25' up.

Protection 

6 bolts, 1 pin, a few finger size pieces, and a large piece.


Comments on The Great Gazoo Add Comment
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By Murf
Aug 5, 2009

The grade is tentative,due to the fact that I don't know if it has seen a second ascent.
By GDavis
Apr 4, 2016

Tried it. Couldn't pull crux moves at all. Not even close.... felt way harder than crux of P1 Fright Night.

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