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Routes in West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)
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Angel's Fright T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Angel's Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Barney TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bedrock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Betty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blanketty Blank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blanketty Blank Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cary Granite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dino T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fred T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fright Night T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Great Gazoo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Human Fright T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Slate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pebbles T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quarry, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stage Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Switchbacks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Switchbacks, Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Twinkletoes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wilma T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m) |
| FA: | Tony Sartin and Tom Murphy, Sept. 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,966 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Aug 5, 2009 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A interesting face climb that climbs a fairly direct line up the West Face.
Start in the right side of the flakes system (what I would consider right of the start of Switchbacks) and climb directly up to the bush on the small ledge. From the bush climb straight up past 2 bolts (crux) to another small ledge. Follow the ledge to the right, then up and left past an overlap to a bolt. Continue up past two more bolts (.11-) to the ledge system that crosses the face (this same ledge continues all the way to The Quarry/Blanketty Blank anchor). From there, climb a short headwall with a bolt to the left side of a roof. Tricky moves protected by a fixed pin lead to a 2 bolt anchor.
To descend you need two ropes. Alternately, one can just reach the anchor on the first pitch of Fred with a 60m rope.
The crux is a devious move, best done in the shade, followed by a powerful pull on thin edges.
Start in the right side of the flakes system (what I would consider right of the start of Switchbacks) and climb directly up to the bush on the small ledge. From the bush climb straight up past 2 bolts (crux) to another small ledge. Follow the ledge to the right, then up and left past an overlap to a bolt. Continue up past two more bolts (.11-) to the ledge system that crosses the face (this same ledge continues all the way to The Quarry/Blanketty Blank anchor). From there, climb a short headwall with a bolt to the left side of a roof. Tricky moves protected by a fixed pin lead to a 2 bolt anchor.
To descend you need two ropes. Alternately, one can just reach the anchor on the first pitch of Fred with a 60m rope.
The crux is a devious move, best done in the shade, followed by a powerful pull on thin edges.
Location
The pitch starts somewhat the same as Switchbacks, and can be identified by the bush located on a ledge about 25' up.
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