This is a great introduction to chimney climbing at Lumpy. Two full pitches up a chimney lead to a nice right-facing corner (with a Bombay slot), which takes you to the top of the Bookend. The route is moderate and the protection is plentiful. Bring kneepads and trail your pack from your harness for the first two pitches or leave it at the base.
This route begins about 15 meters uphill from Orange Julius in the large dihedral/chimney. Some easy scrambling is required to get to the base of this route. This route is easily viewed from the approach trail.
The protection on this route is excellent. A #3 Camalot is useful but not required.
Phil Kerwin coming off the couch from WI.
P1 down low.
Robby chalks up on pitch 3 of The Great Dihedral.
P2 approaching the easier terrain.
Robby near the bottom of the pitch 1 chimney.
No whitewater today, 6/13/6.
Robby heads up the 3rd pitch.
The Great Dihedral is just left of the prominent p...
Robby part way up the 3rd and final pitch of The G...
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
Feb 22, 2002
Kneepads? What were you doing up there? You can stem, or face-climb, outside the chimney almost the entire way. You only have to get inside it for one section, passing a big chockstone 1/3 of the way up. That said, this is a super fun route; well worth the visit.
|By justin dubois|
From: Estes Park
Feb 26, 2002
This is a most enjoyable adventure up a major feature on the Bookend. I would give it at least two stars. there is very little chimney or thrutchish climbing on it if you do it right.the gear is great, and it is chock full of good rock.
|By Stephan Greenway|
Feb 25, 2003
Hmmmm....wasn't this route the site of the famed "great boating accident?"
Feb 25, 2003
This excellent fissure drains several aspects of The Bookend. If it looks like rain you might want to include a kayak on the rack.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 9, 2004
For cluckers like me, a #4 Camalot is a nice option for that lieback R around the chockstone (crux, polished foot holds) 160ft up, if you remember to clip it. P1 190ft gets you to a nice ledge (though there are many to choose from). P2 120ft gets you to a huge ledge. P3 about 170 ft to the tree at the top. Nice shade on a hot day. Thanks, Chris.
|By Jeff Dwyer|
Jul 5, 2004
Climbed here on Sat. 7/3/04. P1 was fun-easy arm bar/stem to stay somewhat out of the chimney. P2 was a little more interesting. The right side chimney looked too easy, so I decided to try the water trough on the left. Glad the rain that came through waited until I finished the pitch. I might have drowned. Pro was a little sketch, but a fun variation on the route. Maybe 5.8+? Rock quality was excellent until I found some choss near the top, very similar to J-tree. Great route overall.
|By Brad Brandewie|
Feb 7, 2007
Kneepads? Ha Ha... Yeah I don't really know what to say about that. I posted this page a long time ago. Still, it's humbling to see that I was such a gumby in the Spring of '01.
I remember those times fondly though... when 5.7 at Lumpy was a big number and 4 pitches took most of a day. Good stuff.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Never needed kneepads; face climb or stem around any spots needing wriggling! Some nice finger and hand cracks on the route. Need a #3 Camalot as largest piece.
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Thought I'd add a description as I'm a bit of a beta-whore myself, and this one is a little more vague than others on mountainproject. So, warning - spoilers ahead.
P1: The first pitch is nearly a full rope length with a 60m. Easy squeeze chimney off the ground (5.6ish), with a relatively difficult bulge about 50' up (probably 5.7; easily visible from the ground). After this bulge, the angle immediately drops off, and the climbing eases. There's ample large and small placements to be found. After another 100' or so of easy climbing, you come to a large chockstone in the low-angle chimney. Apparently this is the crux of the pitch, but there's no exposure and the protection is good. It looks like you can go either right or left past the chockstone. I went left. It was awkward but not too difficult. After this, it's easy climbing to an obvious belay ledge. 190'.
P2: Follow easy climbing on the right until you come to a small, well-protected bulge. Solid handjams and good feet allow you to easily pass over this. Easy climbing leads to another chockstone, which, again, looks like it can be passed on either the right or the left. I went left, using solid feet and lie-backing the chockstone to pass over it. Easy climbing to an absolutely huge ledge. 120'.
P3: Follow an angling crack up and right. The crux is probably about 30' off the belay. You climb to a small cave, and then need to climb out of the cave to gain the crack proper. I placed pro deep in the cave, which ended up screwing me with rope drag later on, but it was nice to have pro before committing to the move. After you gain the crack, it's all solid handjams and great feet. In my opinion, P3 is by far the best pitch of the climb. Follow the crack until it ends (don't be tempted to bust left onto easier ground), and then move as far to the left as possible and follow easy, grooved climbing to the summit. 170'.
I stole the pitch length estimates from Leo Paik. They seemed dead on to me.
This was a great climb, not particularly sustained (except for P3), but each pitch had at least a couple 5.7 moves, and protection was ample throughout. Route finding is incredibly easy. The description calls it a "great intro to Lumpy chimney climbing" and I think that's dead on. The first pitch was especially strenuous and awkward. Really a fun climb though, and worth doing.
|By Noah Hitch|
From: Fort Collins
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Unless you are pretty confident in your awkward crack climbing abilities, having a #4 and/or #5 Camalot is very nice for the first pitch at least. Otherwise, a standard rack with doubles in larger sizes makes the route very comfortably protected. The last section is a pretty deep, wide crack that I found hard to protect and was kinda runout.