|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Pinklebear on Jun 27, 2002|
|Comments on The Great Cornholio||Add Comment|
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By Joe Desimone
Mar 26, 2004
|This route was a project of mine during the latter part of the bolting frenzy in 1994-995 time frame. I set all anchors and cleaned all the holds to make travel safe and passable. I never red pointed the route in one push, but lead free all moves except the actual large roof crux. Never did figure a good sequence for it.Rumor has it a bizarre knee bar was the critical technique to secure the move. What ever the move, I was happy someone had finished the route and opened it up to the world to enjoy. Upon reading the write up about this route, I have to wonder if that was such a good thing, now in light of the manner this route was made to succumb to lesser bolting practices and climbing talent.The original intent was to make this a two pitch line, with anchors below the roof that would provide a fun, moderately rated pitch for the mortal climbers of the world, and the roof crux pitch for the godlike hardmen. I never got the opportunity to equip the route with the second anchors because of the newly enforced bolting ban at the time. I actually was caught by the sheriff with my gas drill a few times trying to get back and finish the job. Frustrating to say the least.Later a knee injury shut down my climbing ambitions and hence interest in finishing this route (along with Glass Onion, now called Lost and Found - 100' right of Cardinal Sin, and Ice Man Cometh). Now with a injured but recovering knee, and having reached burn out while climbing and driving to the canyon every weekend, left these projects in limbo.The original name for what is now The Cornholio was to be called Excalibur. Never once during my development of this route was any artificial hold created to make the route "go". No chipping, gluing, or drilling. It didn't need it! In fact the blocky roof sequence on the lower tan face where the offending drilled pocket is located, is one of the more interesting sequences encountered on any new route I had put up to date. Lot's of cool body english, balance, power pulling, and sheer hand strength were attributes needed to enjoy this cruxy sequence. I'm sorry to see all my hard effort in developing this route has gone to shit because of someone's lack of good climbing judgment, and inability to master techniques needed to successfully climb this series of moves. I hope someone will take the initiative and fill in the drilled pocket and restore the route to the original condition. Perhaps someday when I get the urge to return to Rifle Canyon, I'll do it myself, and while I'm there put in those anchors too!Happy Climbing.Joe Desimone - 2004|
By Chad Thomson
Oct 7, 2014
|This route was re-bolted 9/2014. Fresh bolts and hangers for your clipping pleasure. I would recommend extending the 2-3 draws under each roof to reduce rope drag going for the anchors!|
Oct 23, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
16 draws are needed if you clip all the bolts, including the anchor, which consists of one open-shut and a closed shut. I thought I did a good job using extendable runners and still had a hard time pulling slack to clip the anchor, so be ready for that. The finish is great, though. If you're up for excitement, I recommend it.
This route climbs different from most Rifle routes of a similar grade. It has some very technical slab climbing between the roofs and the sequences are easier to read since the rock on this climb is smoother than the usual blocky (cryptic) fare around these parts. The slabs yawning beneath me on the roofs added some intimidation, though. At times I felt like I was climbing in Eldo. Which brings me to my next discussion.
The route was originally graded 12c, and modern books call it 12d. I can understand the 12c rating, and the route doesn't seem to have any moves on it that are harder than some classic, benchmark 12c's in the canyon, such as Hang 'em High and Pretty Hate Machine. Then again, it is harder to rate "techy" routes in which balance and sequencing are challenged more than your biceps (you don't have the same pump that you would on steeper routes). Plus there is the mental factor to consider, the delicate fear that the toe rubber on your shoes will roll off a tiny edge and send your nose scraping down the slab and over the lip of the roof below. Maybe the grade inflation is because slab climbing is becoming an arcane skill, or maybe obscure routes are prone to upgrading more than the established classics. I don't know. Just mentioning this here because I'd be interested see what others think. I've done three routes in the canyon like this one recently – including Serpentine and Call the Cops – and noticed similarities in the grades.