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 ADVANCED
Chopping Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sioux Named Boy 
Baba Cool 
Chopping Block 
Glimpse Into Paradise 
Great Chimney, The 
Meat is Murder 
Twelve White Sticks 
Valdez Overhang 
Unsorted Routes:

The Great Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: Brad Boner on Jan 1, 2002
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Description 

Also known as The Great Dihedral. This is the obvious chimney/dihedral to the right of Meat Means Murder. The first 1/3 takes very good pro, but becomes non-existant after pulling over the slight overhang and climbing into the off-width chimney. The chimney widens as you ascend, and this section is awkward and uncomfortable for most of the way, but some people get their kicks out of this kind of stuff. Falling out of the chimney could be nasty, and slipping and falling into it could be just as bad. Near the top, head to the right of the chimney for rappel anchors.


Protection 

Standard rack. Big Bros for the offwidth.



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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 29, 2005

Great route if you don't mind wide cracks. A must do for the trad climber!

By Will Buckman
From: Devils Tower
Sep 25, 2006

one of the hardest 5.8's I've done. it is totally worth doing twice just to see if it gets easier.

By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 22, 2007

This route was first climbed by Jim Slichter and Don LeFevre in 1975. Worth doing just to do the pull over the roof.