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The Great Chasm
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Great Chasm, The S 

The Great Chasm 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jason Stevens
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 9,381
Submitted By: Jason Stevens on Jan 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Jared Nielson on the first pitch. Some might say t...

Description 

Pitch 1: Start on the arete and climb a FULL 60M to anchors on the ledge. (20 bolts, bring long draws to reduce rope drag).

Pitch 2: Move right 40' to a pod with anchors.

Pitch 3: Ascend the wall above (crux) to anchors on the left at a small outcropping. Continue to the summit and sign the register.

Location 

Approach: The trail to the base of the route is about 40 yards before you come to the Matrix. The route is on the south side of the drainage, or left of the drainage if you are facing up-canyon. If you go too far and arrive at the Matrix, the route is behind you and slightly down-canyon. The route starts on the obvious arete left of the Raspberry/Fern filled gully.

Descent: You can rap the route with a single 60M rope. From the anchors at the end of P3, rap 30' past the pod (end of P2) to anchors on the right. They are found above a small shelf. From there it is another 30M to the top of the fern/raspberry filled gully.

Protection 

15 quickdraws, 5 long (12") quichdraws and something for the anchors. P1 is VERY long...a full 60M. And it wanders a little. Short quickdraws will result in some pretty hefty rope drag. Bring some long draws to reduce rope drag.


Photos of The Great Chasm Slideshow Add Photo
Top of route by anchor
Top of route by anchor
summit of the great chasm
summit of the great chasm
Jared Nielson sighning the summit register. This photo is shot looking up the Middle Fork.
Jared Nielson sighning the summit register. This p...
Allison on lead of the third pitch of the Great Chasm.
Allison on lead of the third pitch of the Great Ch...
The first pitch truly is a FULL 60m!
The first pitch truly is a FULL 60m!
Great view from the summit of Great Chasm!
Great view from the summit of Great Chasm!
Starting up pitch 1 with the upper headwall of pitch 3 visible above.
Starting up pitch 1 with the upper headwall of pit...
Martha topping out on the last pitch.
Martha topping out on the last pitch.
A view up the Middle Fork from the ledge at the top of the first pitch.
A view up the Middle Fork from the ledge at the to...
Tristan walking across "pitch 2" - the ledge at the top of pitch 1.
Tristan walking across "pitch 2" - the ledge at th...
Walt and John at the summit.
Walt and John at the summit.
Lydia & Molly simul-climb  <br />near the top of 1st pitch <br />The Great Chasam (5.7)
Lydia & Molly simul-climb
near the top of 1st pit...
Walt heading up pitch 1.
Walt heading up pitch 1.

Comments on The Great Chasm Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2012
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Thanks for these multi-pitch routes, Jason Stevens. it's quite a joy to break up the routine climbing at Maple with routes like this!
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 9, 2007

I did this climb with my wife on our anniversary years ago after jason told us about it. since then i've taken people up this wondrous thing 5-6 times. It really is a nice easy climb with fantastic views. A touring route. Wear a helmut, rockfall is possible especially on the rappell. Also you'll need two ropes. The first pitch is way run out but easy. The last pitch is the funnest with huge cobbles for holds. Take your time and enjoy.
By grizz
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

After searching a bit for this route, my partner and I enjoyed it. It was his first multipitch climb. I was a bit surprised by the run out of the first pitch but it was on easy climbing. The third pitch is the money pitch for sure although it is short. I have to complain about some bad beta I received from another website specific to Maple Canyon. In its description it states "it can be climbed with one rope". Well, guess what? You can't get back to the ground with one rope which left us with about 25' of 5.5ish downclimbing.
By Darren Knezek
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I rapped the route with one rope, it was a 70-meter, but there was plenty of rope left.
By darrell hodges
Jul 26, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first pitch is bolted in such a way that you won't have to worry about z-clipping at all.
We rapped off with one rope (70M). We BARELY made it, thanks to rope stretch. To do it, you have scootch way over to the right where the ground slopes up. Even then, our ATCs were right up against the knots in the end of our rope when our feet touched the ground (we simul rapped).

Great climb. Very enjoyable. It was nice and shady all morning and even though the canyon was packed we had this all to ourselves. It was very quiet and the view off the top is awesome.
I highly recommend this climb.
By Lee Jensen
Aug 17, 2009

A must do route for the grade with amazing views and position.

To find the route head up the middle fork trail towards the natural arch. After about ten minutes of walking you will pass a large cobble boulder (bigger than a car) on the right of the trail. Turn to your left, leave the trail, and cross the stream. If miss the boulder, the trail soon cross the stream. That should be your sign to turn around and go back about 150 feet. After you have crossed the stream at the boulder you will see a more defined trail heading to your right along the base of the cliff. Follow this up until you head into a fern filled gully with a line of bolts on an arete.

The first pitch is 5.5 and takes a full 60m.

The second pitch is a short traverse with one exposed fourth class move with no protection. It would be interesting to see if there was a way to easily combine this with the first pitch.

When you rap off from the second pitch you will end up at the top of the fern filled gully about 100 feet from where you started. A full single 70m rope will make it to the bottom, but you must swing around the corner to your right so that you are at the very top of the gully.
By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
Jul 1, 2011

6.30.11

I added a rappel station to the descent so that the route can be climbed and descended in it's entirety with a single 60M rope.

Rappel instructions: Rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2 (the pod), rap from the top of pitch 2 (the pod) to anchors at right on an arete. Rap from there to the ground.

I also added a few bolts to the first pitch. There were at least 3 sections of 20-25' runnouts. In maple that is just not necessary. A blown cobble and an off-balance, unexpected fall could result in broken limbs or death. I HIGHLY recommend long draws for P1 or rope drag will lock you down tight. There are 16 bolts on the first pitch and it wanders a bit.

I also moved the first belay station a little to the left. It is now more in-line with the climbing on the first pitch and gives you about 12' of extra rope to work with.

Enjoy!

Jason Stevens
By tpatpat
Jun 12, 2012

is there a walk off?
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 13, 2012

No walk-off tpatpat. A fun route though. Amazing view of Maple Canyon from the top. Get on it!
By tpatpat
Jun 14, 2012

So when you rap off you just tie two ropes togther??
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 15, 2012

Jason's comment above explained it pretty well:

"I added a rappel station to the descent so that the route can be climbed and descended in it's entirety with a single 60M rope."

Here it is spelled out:

60m Rope Rappel Instructions:
1) Rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2 (the pod)
2) Rap from the top of pitch 2 (the pod) to anchors at right on an arete
3) Rap from there to the ground

70m Rope Rappel Instructions:
1) Rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2 (the pod)
2) Rap from the top of pitch 2 (the pod) to the ground (rope stretcher)

Maybe Jason could update the route description as well.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 23, 2012

Excellent climb! Prior to the most updated Knezek guide being published beta was way off for this route, from approach directions to pitch information. Glad to see there is some better info out there now.

Fun cobble pulling off the beaten path enough and with exposure enough to make this climb feel adventurous. Beautiful views all the way up the climb. Pitch 2 isn't really a pitch, just a short traverse on a good ledge to pitch 3's belay anchors. There is one or two exposed moves on the traverse where you don't want to slip.

Thanks for putting this route in!
By CHopwood
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 13, 2012

This route makes for a very fun outing with awesome views. Short approach and easy climbing. My friend, who just started leading, led both pitches and she loved it! Just a thought, I found the rap bolts for the 3rd rap to be in a bad location. I rapped past without seeing them, then had to climb back up to them. They are on the far right wall as you rap, hard to see, and are a bit of a scramble to get to. They are also on a very small ledge which makes it hard if you have more than two people. The logical place for a rap station seemed to be the ledge that is slightly up and left. It is right in-line with the anchors in the pod and big enough to park a bus on. My 60M had plenty of rope left to get down from there.