A good climb on mostly good rock. The chimney is pretty wide so as to be comfortable and featured enough so as to be climbed without grunting, and close enough to the edge for the claustrophobic. It is to be found in the longest (highest) parts of the central ramparts of the Palisade Head, a few hundred meters N. of the popular crack routes: Quetico, Superior and Phantom. Rap in as per these other climbs, then walk to the base of this north-facing chimney.
This route is the obvious wide chimney that can be seen from the top of the cliffs up North. Although one can clearly see the chimney, photographing a climber in it is entirely another matter. You'll likely get one arm and one leg in most shots...
A standard rack. Pro can be tricky to place here and there, so take it when you get it.
10/9/2010. Fun easy route that is easy to find and easy to setup for TR. Limited exposure so would make good first climb for beginners. This route must not be climbed much because there ar lots of loose rock. Did my share of cleaning, but could use more.
Finding it is simple. Look for a buttress separated from the main wall. Great place to hang out if it's cold and windy!