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The Great Arch 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
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Submitted By: Jesse Huey on Aug 9, 2011
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Description 

The Great Arch is one of squamish's very best difficult stemming corners. With no moves being too difficult, it will stay on you till the VERY end and leave you wondering why your legs still hurt 3 days later. The guidebook gives a 13a rating but locals believe it to be more in the 12+ range. A fantastic route.


Location 

The Great Arch is located just left of the second pitch of Rock On. It is accessed via the top of pitch one from rock on or a dirty 4th class low 5th pitch lookers left of the climb.


Protection 

It was originally climbed with fixed pins, then retro bolted after the removal of the pins. The climb has been done (twice) by my knowledge on gear (I watched my partner send skipping the bolts and placing 25 pieces.) However, if you don't have the time to figure out the gear and are less inclined for that challenge, there are 8 bolts. The climb still requires a set of micro nuts, 1 purple tcu, 2 blue tcu's, 2 yellow tcu's, 2 purple camalots, and one each from green camalot to gold. An all gear ascent will require the full gamet including brass nuts, 000 c3s etc.



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