The Grand Expedition
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|Type: ||Trad, 7 pitches, 1340 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.8+ [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Layne and Sheriden Potter|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Mar 29, 2004|
BETA PHOTO: A)Triple Buttress area B)Sinister Slab 5.7R C)Sudu...
The Grand Expedition..1340'.III 5.8+R.. This climb is one of the classics of the Reef. The run outs are a bit long on the more difficult pitches. Starts about 300'left of Surfing the Swell route. From the top of the next wave left(south) of the Chocolate topped wave (see Photo)
P1)Climb to a bolt at about 70'. Move up into the groove then to a two bolt anchor. 190'5.7R.
P2)Continue up the shallow groove and face to double anchors. 190'. 5.5R
P3)Up open slab/groove to double anchors 190'.5.4R.
P4)Climb more nice slab angling right about 50' to reach the rim of the wall above the secret garden to double Rap Anchors.190'5.4R ......
RAP 80' into the Secret Garden....
P5)Straight ahead climb a very easy slab trending right passing a fairly obvious shallow groove system on the left to below a black smudgy dike system that forms the last two pitches.200' 5.0.
P6).Up mini grooves a few feet to the black rock. The first bolt is at about 60',then another slightly up to the left,pass this to double bolt anchors. 190' 5.8+R
P7)Straight up the black rock past one bolt. When the the difficulty ease follow an easy ramp on the left.At its end (about 40') traverse back right along a narrow ledge to double anchors(register) directly above the lower part of P7.180'5.8+R. The true summit can be reached by an easy 200' scramble to the left.
Descent....Rap down to the Secret Garden.Walk left(north)for about 200' to a gully(this is where the route Surfing The Swell comes up.)One now descends this route.4th class down the gully on its left side for about 300'to double rap anchors. Rap 200' to just right(south) of a large flake to drilled peg and bolt rap anchor. A) either rap to the left north, then down the first pitch of Surfing The Swell or B)Rap down towards the start of the Grand Expedition start, and 4th class rightwards the last 200'to the ground. First Ascent .Paul Ross, Layne and Sheriden Potter. Mar 29th 2004
Friends .#1 to #3.5. There are very few cam placements and these are only on the easy pitches. A few quick draws , slings and perhaps a hand drill and one or two #1 angles incase one gets off route.Two 200'ropes . Recommend 8m or 9m.
Layne on the lower slabs.
Rapping off the top of Pitch 4 into the Secret Gar...
P.Ross on Pitch seven.5.8R
Sheridan gripped on pitch 3