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 ADVANCED
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Control T 
Between Coming and Going T 
Crystal Vision T 
Diddler , The T 
Dr. Ruth's Variation T 
Grafenbeg Crack, The T 
Growing Hole, The S 
Idiotsyncracies  T 
Recondite T 
Technarete T 
Titan's Dice S 

The Grafenbeg Crack 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown (Please let me know if you have history on this)
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Evan Kennedy climbing just past the crux on Granfe...

Description 

Follow 25' Handcrack to ledge. Move Right to Layback flake ancd continue to top. Either move left on slabby face at top or trend right to easier ground.

Makes a good climb out.




Location 

About 5 routes left of Fantasy Roof area.

Protection 

Trad.


Photos of The Grafenbeg Crack Slideshow Add Photo
10/20/13
10/20/13

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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Dec 3, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Very nice varied climb with a thin, thought provoking move in the middle. Fun, easy finish.

FA: Tom Howard and Rick Thompson, October 1985
By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
Apr 23, 2010

Great climb with PG protection. Height is closer to 80 ft. Break left at top to reach anchors above The Diddler (5.10a). From those anchors you can TR The Diddler or set a directional and TR Idiotsyncracies (5.11b). Both are good climbs.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 3, 2013

It's The GrafenBERG Crack I think. FA Tom Howard and Rick Thompson 1985. Once you pass the thin move at ~45ft. to gain the layback it's pretty much smooth sailing from there. There are two ways to finish this route. The better protected and easier way is to continue to follow the crack up and right, top out, then simply move climber's left to the anchors. The straight up variation is basically unprotectable- although you might get something small in a shallow horizontal. You will also be contending with lichen. This path does not get taken much. I did it on top rope for shits and giggles and remember thinking that I was glad I didn't lead that path straight up. It's good slab climbing but it is definitely PG.