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Glacier Point Apron
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Unsorted Routes:

The Grack, Right Side 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: TM Herbert and Ken Boche
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 14, 2011
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  • Description 

    Moderate, 5.7 climbing for 150 feet leads to a ledge with a fir tree. Move to the right end of the ledge and surmount a small overhang, clipping one of the few bolts on the route to protect 5.9 climbing up and left to a long dihedral ending on the ledge the first ascensionists named Good Friday. From Good Friday, poorly protected 5.9 climbing continues up and right to a small ledge; from here more sparsely protected friction climbing trending slightly left leads to the top of the Grack. Descend by rappeling over Marginal, using two 50 meter ropes.
    This climb might deserve an "X" rating, but I only gave it "R," due to the low angle and slick rock.


    Location 

    Starts a few feet right of the start for Marginal at a ledge with a couple of trees; an oak and a fir.


    Protection 

    Very sparsely protected; only one bolt and small wires; light rack since placements are skimpy.



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    By Rodger Raubach
    Mar 15, 2011

    This route has climbing similar in nature to Marginal, but isn't as well protected. Only recommended for climbers secure on runout face/friction climbing. I'll not go back for seconds!