The Gordian Knot
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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 530 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.9 C1 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 4/13/04|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Apr 13, 2004|
Start of first pitch
The Gordian Knot. III 5.9 C1.(5.11) 530'... This route is different to the surrounding slab routes, the climbing is more spire like in nature. Takes a corner system up one of the interior walls of Three Finger Canyon.From the trail head at the mouth of Three Fingers follow the left side of the rock face up round the corner to a steep blank looking wall with 5 bolts that leads to a corner with a thin crack..10 mins walk.
P1) Climb 8' to the first bolt and free and semi aid to the corner.( Parts of bolt ladder were freed 5.10+ a couple very difficult moves remain... Now all free 5.11+).The groove is thin to start ,continue to double anchors. 100'5.9 C1
P2) Follow wide crack to bulge, over bulge then right into corner . Easier climbing above leads to double anchors. 100'5.9.
P3)Straight up nice stemming corner and crack to bolt anchors on the right. 60' 5.7+.
P4) Traverse up a groove on the left to a ledge . A steep friable wall leads into an easy grove to a massive ledge ,block belay. 80' 5.7R (Rap anchors are located about 40' on the edge up to the right).Walk 250' right along the ledge to below the corner.
P5) Do not up the easy looking corner but traverse up the slabs to the left passing a pine tree .Just passed this climb up to another groove , then around the corner to a groove that leads to the summit.A 3.5 cam can be use for an anchor. 190'.5.4........
Descent. The rap anchors are located about 30' above along the rim on a flat section.A 180' rap to the big ledge, then scramble down to anchors above pitch 4 . Continue straight down the route. Paul Ross Layne Potter.. 13/4/04
Double rack from Alians to 3.5 friends .One #4 and one #5, set of stoppers. Extra webbing.
Climber top of Pitch one.
Stemming on Pitch 3
Pitch 2 ,Gordian Knot
Layne on top . Gordiad Knot. Not Trucks far below.
Jeff Balwin freeing the start of the first pitch