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The Wart
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Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, The 
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Symbolic Of Life 

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chick Holtcamp and John Lakey, 2/78
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Dec 7, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Takes the obvious wide crack to the right of the w...

Description 

The clean hands start is obviously "the Good".... the middle section could be "the Bad", and for sure the wide above is "the Ugly"! This route is deceptively awkward for the 34" of real climbing it offers. I did it right side in, left side in, and stacked it, and none of them were great... or graceful. There are some tricks to all them methods, but this no place to tell them... get in there and start wiggling. Really good route with one or two interesting moves.


Location 

This route goes up the obvious roof to wide crack on the south west face of the Wart. You can start low in a pit to get an extra 10 feet of extra clean thin hands if you desire. If not, step off the boulder at the base and skip the clean hands. Easy downclimb to climbers right.


Protection 

I placed a 2" cam, another 2" cam, and then a #6 Wild Country Cam. If you want to pro the moves out of the pit a the start, use something in the 1.5" range. Summit takes 2" to 3" cams for an anchor.



Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Slideshow Add Photo
The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
BETA PHOTO: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
Russ leading
Russ leading
Scuffy B on The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Scuffy B on The Good, the Bad and the Ugly.
Photo ...
Susan following the roof portion.
Susan following the roof portion.
Susan at the heart of the wide business
Susan at the heart of the wide business
The Undercling. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
The Undercling.
Photo by Blitzo.
Susan past the business thinking this is the hardest 37 inches of climbing I've done all day.
Susan past the business thinking this is the harde...
Kneebar rest amid the  <br />"Ugly" section.  Photo by Jason.  18 Jan 2014.
Kneebar rest amid the
"Ugly" section. Photo by J...
Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 7, 2007

The "good" of this route is definitely the start. Girly hands fit perfect with a 2" clean crack, fantastic jams and featured nuggets or dishes for the feet. Transitioning through the "bad" isn't really all that bad. The "ugly", although short, works you over. Nice route, nearly as grainy as the boulders at the base. Fun stuff for any WideFriday™

By chrisp
Feb 18, 2008

The gear description is totally accurate on this route. I did it with only a new #5 camelot and burried it back in the "ugly" part.

the Ugly part was awesome. I thought turning the corner was the technical crux on this, but protectable.

This is a totally fun route that I would recommend to anyone in the area that wants to get a good pump on some interesting climbing!

By Pat C
From: Honolulu
May 29, 2009

The "ugly" was torture! I must have spent ten minutes on this very short section. I should have worn long sleeves though, that rock just bites into your tasty bbq chicken wings. This thing was harder than Make or Break Flake (.10b) up at the white cliffs of dover.