The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | O'Brien, Edwards (1992) |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Apr 17, 2006 |
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Il Buono, il brutto, il cattivo (The Good, the Bad...
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Description This route takes the tallest (and highest quality) line at the crag. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a bolt overhead. Several bolts of sustained, delicate slab climbing (stay low on the slab and out of the gully for full value) give way to a truly difficult clip and then the steep crux. One more bolt leads to the anchors. If you manage to clip the seventh bolt, the crux is extremely well protected. All in all a very memorable route!
Protection 8 bolts. 2 open shuts
Cathy DeCecco enjoying The Good, the Bad, and the ...
| Jeff Crow just past the roof.
| Justin W, standing just above the crux roof move
| Michael McKay ponders the crux overhang on "The Go...
| Michael past the crux and cruising, on "The Good, ...
| Kathleen Wathen steps onto the delicate slab secti...
| BETA PHOTO: A fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly is...
| Nicole Clancy climbs through the crux of a fun var...
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| Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly |
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By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 18, 2006
| I have actually gotten into the practice of placing a 3/4" piece of gear before attempting to clip the seventh bolt. The clip is super awkward--blowing the clip without the additional protection would be very bad. In some cases, I have subsequently back-cleaned the piece to avoid any rope drag. |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA May 7, 2006
| Best route at the crag. Good flick, too. |
By Richard Shore Mar 18, 2011
| 0.5 Camalot or equivalent sized TCU before the awkward clip. With a long sling on it, though, it isnt much higher than the previous bolt (2' maybe). I'd probably forego the extra pro next time. |
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 24, 2011
| Last weekend, I saw somebody fall trying to reach the 7th clip--BIG, thought-provoking fall onto the slab below. Luckily, he was okay. I like to think of this route as having 5.9 climbing but a 5.10 clip. |
By Matt N From: Santa Barbara, CA Jul 16, 2012
| First time leading it, had supplemental gear and still had an uncomfortable awkward clip. Yesterday, no gear, hoping that would force me to reach up and clip before it got awkward - nope. Funky to figure out the good stance on lead (done it on TR - it involves a heel hook to make the clip way more comfy, just can't replicate that on lead). Nice varied line, though. |
By Stefan Seritan Feb 3, 2013
| One of the open shuts now spins, but there is now a Mussy hook to supplement the open shuts. |
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