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For a Few Crystals More 
Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, The 
He Who Double-crosses Me... 
My Name's Nobody, Bub 
Once Upon a Climb in the West 
Unknown 

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly 

5.9

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
FA: O'Brien, Edwards (1992)
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Il Buono, il brutto, il cattivo (The Good, the Bad...

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Description 

This route takes the tallest (and highest quality) line at the crag. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a bolt overhead.

Several bolts of sustained, delicate slab climbing (stay low on the slab and out of the gully for full value) give way to a truly difficult clip and then the steep crux. One more bolt leads to the anchors.

If you manage to clip the seventh bolt, the crux is extremely well protected.

All in all a very memorable route!


Protection 

8 bolts. 2 open shuts



Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Slideshow Add Photo
Cathy DeCecco enjoying The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.

Cathy DeCecco enjoying The Good, the Bad, and the ...

Jeff Crow just past the roof.

Jeff Crow just past the roof.

Justin W, standing just above the crux roof move

Justin W, standing just above the crux roof move

Michael McKay ponders the crux overhang on "The Good, the Bad & the Ugly," at Crag Full of Dynamite.

Michael McKay ponders the crux overhang on "The Go...

Michael past the crux and cruising, on "The Good, the Bad & the Ugly."

Michael past the crux and cruising, on "The Good, ...

Kathleen Wathen steps onto the delicate slab section of The Good, the Bad & the Ugly.

Kathleen Wathen steps onto the delicate slab secti...

A fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly is to climb the first 6 bolts of that route and then veer right upon reaching the overhang.  It is possible to follow a right-arching hand crack up to the top of the wall.   <br /> <br />The crux of this variation involves delicate smearing with a cam below your feet.  Carry two pieces in the 1/2" to 1" range.  Rappel from bolts.

BETA PHOTO: A fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly is...

Nicole Clancy climbs through the crux of a fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly, at Crag Full of Dynamite.

Nicole Clancy climbs through the crux of a fun var...


Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 18, 2006

I have actually gotten into the practice of placing a 3/4" piece of gear before attempting to clip the seventh bolt. The clip is super awkward--blowing the clip without the additional protection would be very bad. In some cases, I have subsequently back-cleaned the piece to avoid any rope drag.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 7, 2006

Best route at the crag. Good flick, too.

By Richard Shore
Mar 18, 2011

0.5 Camalot or equivalent sized TCU before the awkward clip. With a long sling on it, though, it isnt much higher than the previous bolt (2' maybe). I'd probably forego the extra pro next time.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 24, 2011

Last weekend, I saw somebody fall trying to reach the 7th clip--BIG, thought-provoking fall onto the slab below. Luckily, he was okay.

I like to think of this route as having 5.9 climbing but a 5.10 clip.

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 16, 2012

First time leading it, had supplemental gear and still had an uncomfortable awkward clip.
Yesterday, no gear, hoping that would force me to reach up and clip before it got awkward - nope. Funky to figure out the good stance on lead (done it on TR - it involves a heel hook to make the clip way more comfy, just can't replicate that on lead).

Nice varied line, though.

By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Jul 19, 2012

By Stefan Seritan
Feb 3, 2013

One of the open shuts now spins, but there is now a Mussy hook to supplement the open shuts.