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Crag Full of Dynamite
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Unknown 

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: O'Brien, Edwards (1992)
Page Views: 2,214
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 17, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Cathy DeCecco enjoying The Good, the Bad, and the ...

Description 

This route takes the tallest (and highest quality) line at the crag. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a bolt overhead.

Several bolts of sustained, delicate slab climbing (stay low on the slab and out of the gully for full value) give way to a truly difficult clip and then the steep crux. One more bolt leads to the anchors.

If you manage to clip the seventh bolt, the crux is extremely well protected.

All in all a very memorable route!


Protection 

8 bolts. 2 open shuts



Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Slideshow Add Photo
Il Buono, il brutto, il cattivo (The Good, the Bad and the Ugly): The 1966 western starring Clint Eastwood. Three gunmen set out to find a hidden fortune. Who will walk away with the cash?
Il Buono, il brutto, il cattivo (The Good, the Bad...
Kathleen steps onto the delicate slab section of The Good, the Bad & the Ugly.
Kathleen steps onto the delicate slab section of T...
Nicole climbs through the crux of a fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly, at Crag Full of Dynamite.
Nicole climbs through the crux of a fun variation ...
Jeff Crow just past the roof.
Jeff Crow just past the roof.
Michael past the crux and cruising, on "The Good, the Bad & the Ugly."
Michael past the crux and cruising, on "The Good, ...
Justin W, standing just above the crux roof move
Justin W, standing just above the crux roof move
A fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly is to climb the first 6 bolts of that route and then veer right upon reaching the overhang.  It is possible to follow a right-arching hand crack up to the top of the wall.   <br /> <br />The crux of this variation involves delicate smearing with a cam below your feet.  Carry two pieces in the 1/2" to 1" range.  Rappel from bolts.
BETA PHOTO: A fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly is...
Michael McKay ponders the crux overhang on "The Good, the Bad & the Ugly," at Crag Full of Dynamite.
Michael McKay ponders the crux overhang on "The Go...
Here you can see both small and big roof areas...
BETA PHOTO: Here you can see both small and big roof areas...
Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 18, 2006

I have actually gotten into the practice of placing a 3/4" piece of gear before attempting to clip the seventh bolt. The clip is super awkward--blowing the clip without the additional protection would be very bad. In some cases, I have subsequently back-cleaned the piece to avoid any rope drag.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 7, 2006

Best route at the crag. Good flick, too.

By Richard Shore
Mar 18, 2011

0.5 Camalot or equivalent sized TCU before the awkward clip. With a long sling on it, though, it isnt much higher than the previous bolt (2' maybe). I'd probably forego the extra pro next time.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 24, 2011

Last weekend, I saw somebody fall trying to reach the 7th clip--BIG, thought-provoking fall onto the slab below. Luckily, he was okay.

I like to think of this route as having 5.9 climbing but a 5.10 clip.

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 16, 2012

First time leading it, had supplemental gear and still had an uncomfortable awkward clip.
Yesterday, no gear, hoping that would force me to reach up and clip before it got awkward - nope. Funky to figure out the good stance on lead (done it on TR - it involves a heel hook to make the clip way more comfy, just can't replicate that on lead).

Nice varied line, though.

By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Jul 19, 2012

By Stefan Seritan
Feb 3, 2013

One of the open shuts now spins, but there is now a Mussy hook to supplement the open shuts.

By OlgaMP
From: Studio City, CA
Sep 23, 2013

As I started to lead this route yesterday a huge chunk of rock about 7 inches long and about 1 inch thick broke right off the wall. Thankfully the piece was heavy enough to fall down to the ground and not bounce off and hit my belayer... Totally freaked me out to start a lead this way, but the route is fun. It looks like this particular area doesn't get a lot of use, so there is a lot of dirt on the rock wall, but still good enough friction. I would put protection under each crack (with extended sling to avoid rope drag) before going over each roof (small and big roofs), just to avoid a bad swing in case you were to fall. Small roof can take small .5 friend with a small sling (do pull on it to check it, because there is a lot of loose rock up there) and the second roof can take a 1 to 3 inch cam (since the crack has different sizes) with a good long 4 or 5 foot sling. I don't think a fall would be too bad, but combined with a swing and the possibility of great holds popping off, it increases the chance of doing some serious damage. Putting some extra protection can minimize that.