The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked 5.12a R
| 2,679 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | First lead: John Scott, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | Anonymous Coward on Jun 1, 2003 |
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Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1...
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Description A popular first 5.12 at the Lake, the route climbs the blank face left of Cracker Jack, between Great Chimney and Lost Face. Start at the toe of the huge flake and make exceedingly desperate moves up a shallow corner. Pass the fixed piton, contemplate a lead of this r/x rated 5.12, remember the security of your toprope, and launch into the upper crux.
Once you execute the hard dyno, you may be surprised to find that the crux is moving your feet up. At any rate, the view of the Lake is spectacular, and you have just become a hero to the gaggle of tourists watching you from near Lost Face.
Protection Usually toproped. A fixed knifeblade halfway up begs for a lead ascent.
Tube socks lead
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Dave Groth on lead
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Old school trad
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the good, the bad, the JACKED
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Another perspective of TGTBTJacked. Jerry working...
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FFA of the Good the Bad, and the Jacked. John Scot...
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Pete from SLC. Andrew Burr getting the shot.
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Peter Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
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Remo
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The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Placing some ja...
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The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Some jacked seq...
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| Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked |
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2006
rating: 5.12c
| Dave Groth originally rated this route 12b/c. I would have to agree with him on this one. Just so ya'll know. Definitely one of the coolest 12s at the lake. I would go ahead and give it 4 stars because of the moves and positioning. |
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Oct 25, 2006
| First lead by John Scott in 1985. Exciting lead deserves an R rating. |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| This is a great route. Not very long, but the climbing is technical and a bit powerful. If your looking for quality Lake 5.12's this one should be on the list. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011
| I have always thought this is one of the best routes at Devil's Lake and certainly of the best of the West Bluff. The holds are so small but super positive in places and require just the right pull angle and feet placement.... throw in a couple of big throws to big holds... fun. There is so much shifting of the body position on this climb... so very little just crimp'n straight down.. |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| Well said Burt. |
By Trad Nanny
Sep 10, 2011
| Toughest in the initial section just after the piton. Is it just laybacking hard in the crimps of the crack? I couldn't get it to go. |
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