Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Michael Shaffer
Page Views: 2,273 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nezbit on Jun 14, 2014
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

On-Sight Beta:
Climb straight up the face directly beneath the roof that marks the beginning of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Move left to a thin crack and continue to the top after the big move on the original line.

Flash Beta:
Powerful, sustained, and unprotected climbing leads into the original line put up by John Scott. A fall before establishing on the flared vertical just above the roof is certain to be unpleasant. A very shallow yet good #1 C4 can be placed in the flare and protects the climber while pulling the roof. A piton waits above. Marginal, micro gear is available just before the big move ahead and a good placement is available right after. After the big move, do a short traverse left to a thin crack and prepare for a third crux section.

Location Suggest change

The direct start begins beneath a small roof approximately 15ft. off the deck (level with the beginning of the original line), climbing the narrow face on the right side of the Get Jacked corner in order to meet up with The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked.

Protection Suggest change

Route: 000 BD C3 - #1 BD C4, or equivalent, and draws.
Anchor: 2-3 #3 BD C4, or equivalent, and cordelettes/long webbing.

Photos

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