All Locations >
Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> W Bluff 05 - W…
> 1: Prospect Poi…
> 04: Great Chimney Area
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct)
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
FA: | Michael Shaffer |
Page Views: | 2,273 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Nezbit on Jun 14, 2014 |
Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
On-Sight Beta:
Climb straight up the face directly beneath the roof that marks the beginning of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Move left to a thin crack and continue to the top after the big move on the original line.
Flash Beta:
Powerful, sustained, and unprotected climbing leads into the original line put up by John Scott. A fall before establishing on the flared vertical just above the roof is certain to be unpleasant. A very shallow yet good #1 C4 can be placed in the flare and protects the climber while pulling the roof. A piton waits above. Marginal, micro gear is available just before the big move ahead and a good placement is available right after. After the big move, do a short traverse left to a thin crack and prepare for a third crux section.
Climb straight up the face directly beneath the roof that marks the beginning of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Move left to a thin crack and continue to the top after the big move on the original line.
Flash Beta:
Powerful, sustained, and unprotected climbing leads into the original line put up by John Scott. A fall before establishing on the flared vertical just above the roof is certain to be unpleasant. A very shallow yet good #1 C4 can be placed in the flare and protects the climber while pulling the roof. A piton waits above. Marginal, micro gear is available just before the big move ahead and a good placement is available right after. After the big move, do a short traverse left to a thin crack and prepare for a third crux section.
3 Comments