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South America Wall
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Border Crossing 
Fern Crack 
Flakes Alive 
Good Book, The 
Seeping Cracks? 
South America Flake  

The Good Book 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown?
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Oct 10, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: walking by view


If you like to groveling strenuous off width type climbing this will be a favorite.

Off the ground stem, jam, smear, and wedge up a left leaning bomb-bay V groove. Pull out of the groove to a nice ledge, and well deserved rest, then follow an easier corner to quick clips.

Tape could be helpful as the fist jams can be quite painful, Ouch!


Approaching Dicky Ledge from the base The Good Book is about one hundred feet right (Northeast) of South America Flake.


Bring a small selection of large Cams BD #3 to #4 as well as a finger sized piece if you want to sew up the last move. Lower off Quick Clips

Photos of The Good Book Slideshow Add Photo
The face says a lot...grunting and cursing, well yes, plenty.
The face says a lot...grunting and cursing, well y...
Good Book
Good Book
Baldy payed in flesh for a trip up this beauty...
Baldy payed in flesh for a trip up this beauty...
Nicely wedged in.
Nicely wedged in.
Notice, tape this time.
Notice, tape this time.
Nick getting horizontal.
Nick getting horizontal.
Comments on The Good Book Add Comment
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By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 10, 2011

where'd you get the photo from?

By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

There is an alternate start just right that goes at 5.10+ but is seldom dry.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

The first route i climbed at Dickey... what a rude awakening haha... great fun! awkward and painful... thats fun right?