The Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU)
||Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||FA A.3, 5.8 Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom 1/71, FFA (var pitch 1) Jim Waugh et al 6/86|
|Season: ||seasonal closures|
|Page Views: ||1,903|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007|
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BETA PHOTO: GBU
aid start: climb a short system to a flake to step up and gain the thin crack. This goes clean at C.2, then more brass nuts lead to belay at easy flakes at horizontal system 130' up.
free start, first freed by Ray Ringle in 1981 @ 5.11, the start climbs a thin crack to face moves past bolts (Jim Waugh installed spring 1986) to some good face climbing (5.10) to belay 130'.
p2, easy climbing leads up 50' to the first face crux (5.11) then more balanced moves lead to right facing palming lieback corner protected on RP's and suspect pin (5.12-). p3 often done with Slammer Jam climbs a steep LB corner to roof (10) or step right to flake (also 10-) to summit.
Right of the great roof is an obvious arete. Right of this arete are the thin cracks of GBU.
RP's and standard GM rack