The Golden Monkey
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BETA PHOTO: The Golden Monkey, pitch 1 on right; Big...
This indistinct line begins about 25 feet left of the huge buttress in the middle of the Upper Great Face, between the Kor-Northcutt on the right and The Big Steep on the left, and finishes with the beautiful headwall beneath the summit.
Pitch 1: Turn a small roof on the left or right (gear) and climb past two bolts to a ledge. Continue upwards (gear) past two more bolts (crux) to a left-facing corner that defines the left side of a "V"-shaped wedge (the right side of the "V" is the obvious slot on the Kor-Northcutt). Climb this corner and stretch the rope to the lowest point of a large ledge system that traverses the upper region of the face (5.10b/c R; 200 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb the vertical headwall above to anchors (sporty 5.9+; 10 bolts; bring midrange cams for placements above the bolts; 110 feet).
Descent: Rap to The Big Steep anchors (slightly north) on the large ledge system. A single 60-meter rope just barely reaches these anchors -- tie a knot. Rap again to another set of anchors on The Big Steep (single rope) or to the ground (double).
Wireds to a #2 Camalot.
Dougald M beginning pitch 2.
Bob Jasperson, pitch 2. Scenic.
Bob Jasperson beginning Pitch 2; note th...
|Comments on The Golden Monkey
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Aug 6, 2007
I can only comment on the second pitch, because we did the Big Steep to get there, but this pitch is absolutely superb...certainly one of the best bolted pitches of its grade on the Front Range. Four stars for steepness, quality of rock, engaging and enjoyable climbing, and great position. Be prepared for well-spaced bolts: It's somewhat sporty but safe once you clip the first bolt, which you can reach directly from the belay ledge or (easier) from a flake on the right. A 70-meter rope lets you lower to the belay ledge, about 15 feet below the anchors on the Big Steep.