The Golden Monkey  5.10b/c R

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  Paul Foster, Bob Jasperson, Bernard Gillett New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Bob Jasperson on Aug 6, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Golden Monkey, pitch 1 on right; Big...

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Description 

This indistinct line begins about 25 feet left of the huge buttress in the middle of the Upper Great Face, between the Kor-Northcutt on the right and The Big Steep on the left, and finishes with the beautiful headwall beneath the summit.

Pitch 1: Turn a small roof on the left or right (gear) and climb past two bolts to a ledge. Continue upwards (gear) past two more bolts (crux) to a left-facing corner that defines the left side of a "V"-shaped wedge (the right side of the "V" is the obvious slot on the Kor-Northcutt). Climb this corner and stretch the rope to the lowest point of a large ledge system that traverses the upper region of the face (5.10b/c R; 200 feet).

Pitch 2: Climb the vertical headwall above to anchors (sporty 5.9+; 10 bolts; bring midrange cams for placements above the bolts; 110 feet).

Descent: Rap to The Big Steep anchors (slightly north) on the large ledge system. A single 60-meter rope just barely reaches these anchors -- tie a knot. Rap again to another set of anchors on The Big Steep (single rope) or to the ground (double).

Protection 

Wireds to a #2 Camalot.

Photos of The Golden Monkey Slideshow

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Dougald M beginning pitch 2.	Bob Jasperson, pitch 2. Scenic.	Bob Jasperson beginning Pitch 2; note th...