P1. Climb the first two pitches of Solid Gold in one long, fun slab pitch. Belay at the first large ledge stretching a single 70m or simul past two more bolts to a second large ledge, 5.8.
P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of Spun Gold, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.
P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.
P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the Spun Gold anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.
There are tons of rap options from the top. The easiest is to rap from the Spun Gold anchor to the anchor on the Playin' Hooky slab, then to the ledge, and then one more to the awkward hanging belay on the first slab pitch.
About 20 draws or so to lead the first two pitches as one. A long sling or two are nice for the last belay.
From: Golden, CO
Oct 28, 2013
This is a fine addition to Creekside and shouldn't be missed! The rock under the roof on P3 is slightly crumbly but will clean up quickly with traffic. With the proper armory, it is possible to link P3 and 4 for an arm numbing lead. Just as good as Solid Gold but with a sweet roof and headwall!
|By Kevin Capps|
From: Golden, CO
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
I jumped on this rig today. Excellent climbing pulling over the roof, and the last pitch is one of the best on the whole wall. I will say the mantel move before the roof is a bit reachy (not sure how a shorty would do it) and the rock is just a bit crumbly below the roof. I think the roof pitch is 12b and the last pitch is 11d. Great job, guys, nice addition!
From: Wherever we park!
Feb 9, 2014
Awesome, Kevin! I've seen someone quite a bit shorter than 6' pull the mantle, it's one of my favorite parts of the route! Thanks for the rating confirmation. That upper band is bullet - solid, solid gold indeed. Love this cliff!