The Golden Egg 

So where's the bivvy on this grade V ?

i was just kidding ;)

For duh fellas from duh nort country it could look like a grade five eh Zach.

Fun climb. First bolt is a long ways up. There's a crack, use it as needed (or not). Getting to the anchors was the crux. The holds pretty much stop before that and it was an awkward move to clip. I contemplated setting up a portaledge and sending the last 5 feet after a good night's sleep. It could be a grade V.

I definitely recommend using a cam or two to get to the first bolt(maybe a stick clip would reach?). After that it is well protected with about 8 or 9 bolts + 2 rap anchors(one has two chain links). I pulled the top on the right, almost totally on the arete. Good route.

The first bolt is about 15' off the ground. If you are comfortable leading 5.8, there's no need to worry about getting up to it.

One of the best climbs of the grade I've done on the mountain.

some lady stopped and waisted all of her disposable camera on me

we got hit with a surprise thunder storm yesterday and had to leave 3 draws on this route. if anyone is in the vicinity this week i offer tribute of beer to get them down. we should be able to get them by next weekend if they're still up there, but if anyone sees them please don't consider them booty--consider them a six-pack of your choice. =)

Climbing is easy right off the ground but gets a little trickier near the first bolt, especially if you're shorter or the draw is not in yet. Thought there might be some handjams up there but it's flared. 5.10 climbers should be OK.