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 ADVANCED
The Golden Wall
Select Route:
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Scoop Arete T,TR 
Scoop Face T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Skink T,TR 
Skink Redirect TR 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

The Golden Dream 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 6,628
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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Nearing the top.

Description 

A fully-sustained fingercrack in a dihedral, that starts off just barely slab and ends up just barely overhanging. THE best 5.9 I've ever climbed. Also, the climb on the cover of the Peterskill guide.

Location 

Climb the fingercrack in the obvious left-facing dihedral on the right end of the Golden Wall alcove. Easy to walk off.

Protection 

G-rated - it's a sustained fingercrack. There is a double-bolted anchor at the top.


Photos of The Golden Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Golden Dream
BETA PHOTO: Golden Dream
Stuart Koonce having fun.
Stuart Koonce having fun.
Golden Dream from the top of Skink
BETA PHOTO: Golden Dream from the top of Skink

Comments on The Golden Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jasonn
Dec 28, 2009

This is the best dihedral I have climbed in a while!
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010

Truly G-rated. I am a nimrod for not leading this climb. It's beautiful, sustained and eats gear from bottom to top. Super climb.
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Nov 24, 2010

very worthy indeed
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jun 23, 2011

A rare treat for the Gunks where high quality "G" climb are relatively rare. If only it were longer.
By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 18, 2011

Beautiful climb that makes the Golden Wall worth revisiting from time to time.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb. Obviously G, and easy to place gear at the crux, but was pretty pumpy placing gear in the last twenty feet or so.
By Alex Charmoz
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 19, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this is not sustained, despite popular belief. short and fun.