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This little gem lies immediately right of Nine To Five and poses an interesting technical problem. The route can be done as left and right variations with some variance in grade. This is a good problem and always worth a burn.
Three draws and a rope.
BETA PHOTO: Some of the possibilities on this route. Far to cl...
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Feb 3, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Nice, pumpy, short route. Good rock with solid holds. A bit tenuous as a fall just before bolt 2 could put you near a ground impact, and there's a pretty good runout (but easier climbing) from bolt 3 to the anchors. Can lead the 5.8 crack trad to the left ("Mechanically Inept", not listed on this site) to access the top anchors. Gold Shut rating depends on where you climb left to right. Left of bolts is way hard (too hard for me to rate), just right of bolts is probably 11a, and further right is maybe 10a.
From: Vail, CO
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I took the "left" variation staying on line and a little to the left of the bolts and it was harder then 11a. It gives you not good feet and a couple crimps. Balancy and technical. But the moves are fun! Try it! Watch out not to deck. It's a bit of a runout from the 3rd bolt to the anchor.
You can make this as hard as you want really. But it's not a 10 unless you take the far right side. 11a to the right and 12- I would say for the left.