BETA PHOTO: The boulder seen from the trail.
Most of the limestone we climb on in Ten Sleep Canyon is Big Horn Dolomite and the Madison tends to be chossy and crumbly. This boulder however, is an absolute stellar chunk of Madison limestone sitting in the forest. This is a great area in the summer since the sun really doesn't come around until late afternoon. Routes are all very good, climbing is juggy and overhanging, makes you ride the pump to the chains. Route from left to right are
Umpalumpa Humpachu .10a
Godfather 1 .10c
Godfather 2 .11a
As Wicked As It Seems .12a
The Ol' Roer 714 .10d
These directions are assuming you are heading out of Ten Sleep on Rt. 16 towards Buffalo,WY. Make a right on old road 435. You will pass a campground on your right, then the fish hatchery and a former forest service campground on your left, the road then turns a hard right. Follow after the hard right maybe 200' and you are making a hard left up a switchback, park in the pullout on the left side of this switchback,(see photo). Walk down 20' or so and you will see a trail on the opposite side of the road from where you parked. The trail splits about 20' into it and you take the right path. Go down 500'
or so and you will come to the river, cross it and follow a good trail up for about 10-15 minutes. You will walk right into this boulder it's hard to miss.
Weather station 10.4 miles from here
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Godfather Boulder
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Godfather Boulder:
Godfather 1 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Godfather Boulder
Godfather 2 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c WY
: Ten Sleep Canyon
: ... : The Godfather Boulder
The book says RADDNESS and I have to agree. This route is another notch up from the route just to the left of it. This route is the 3rd route in from the right on the Godfather Boulder. Crux comes right between the 3rd and 4th bolt if I remember right? Fun route be warned that plenty of spiders live in the wonderful jugs. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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BETA PHOTO: The parking area, if you look close enough off the...
BETA PHOTO: You will have to cross the river plan accordingly....