Most of the limestone we climb on in Ten Sleep Canyon is Big Horn Dolomite and the Madison tends to be chossy and crumbly. This boulder however, is an absolute stellar chunk of Madison limestone sitting in the forest. This is a great area in the summer since the sun really doesn't come around until late afternoon. Routes are all very good, climbing is juggy and overhanging, makes you ride the pump to the chains. Route from left to right are
These directions are assuming you are heading out of Ten Sleep on Rt. 16 towards Buffalo,WY. Make a right on old road 435. You will pass a campground on your right, then the fish hatchery and a former forest service campground on your left, the road then turns a hard right. Follow after the hard right maybe 200' and you are making a hard left up a switchback, park in the pullout on the left side of this switchback,(see photo). Walk down 20' or so and you will see a trail on the opposite side of the road from where you parked. The trail splits about 20' into it and you take the right path. Go down 500'
5 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Godfather Boulder:
Umpalumpa Humpachu 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Godfather 1 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Godfather Boulder
Godfather 1 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : The Godfather Boulder
This route is sweetness! We thought this route was in the 15-20 degree overhanging range. All on jugs with a final crux right at the last bolt where you slap around the corner until you find yet another jug. Good thing the fall is super safe from here. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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