The climb is just to the right of Jam and Jelly. The first section simply climbs the crack/face of Jam and Jelly to the ledge, unprotected, but not really needed. Then it's 11 crimpy to the next ledge, all on the face to the right of the second part of Jam and Jelly. It looks blank from below but it's all there. The second ledge is dirty and sandy and there is a tree in your way, which sort of adds to the charm. Pulling the next overhang on hidden jugs is the crux IMO. It's not a stellar route but if you're running out of 11's to climb this one is pretty good. The book gives it 11+, but I think that's a little soft, 11b?.
Bolts. New anchors (thanks Jeff). Consider clipping the first bolt of Kelly's Arete on your left with a long runner if you want. Or you could put a #4 camalot or a hex in the crack to protect the first section. Feel free to PM me updated bolt/anchor info if you want, it's been a long time since I climbed this.
|By Jeff Kolehmainen|
From: Eagan, MN
Mar 29, 2009
The Go Between has nice new anchors at the top now. Doesn't get done much, but is a pretty fun route!
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Surprisingly enjoyable, more so than Annadonia. In my mind the epitome of mid 5.11 climbing. Nice exposure for Red Wing.
|By Chris treggE|
From: Madison, WI
Apr 23, 2010
Rating updated to reflect current consensus.
Nov 7, 2010
IMHO, this is THE classic 5.11 at RW. Crack, face, overhang, crimpers, devious slopey finish when you are spent. And the view is fantastic. Anadonia can't compare, 1 move wonder.
Nov 7, 2010
Oh yeah, when I replaced the anchors, I turned the old 3" bolt and the rock just fractured and the bolt fell out with rock crumbles in my hand. So I put 5" bolts in and left the last 3" bolt as the "Hail Mary". That's why there is 10' of chain up there.