The Glen Canyon NRA is an immense area that spans from northern Arizona all the way up to the Canyonlands National Park, and from near Escalante all the way to the Goosenecks near Mexican Hat. Before the dam was completed in 1963, there were hundreds of miles of canyons that no doubt contained some incredible climbs and other magical adventures. The canyons are long since flooded, but there is still a tremendous opportunity for remote adventures here. A little exploration goes a long way out here in the desolation of the high desert. Notable areas are the Escalante region and the Waterpocket Fold, the canyons of the San Juan River, and north one has the Dirty Devil, Rock Canyon, Andy Miller Flats, and the magnificent gorge of Cataract Canyon.
The established climbs are in the Escalante area (Willow Canyon), and atop Andy Miller Flats. There are unclimbed towers and spires in this vast area, but you must put your adventure hat on to find them.
Browse More Classics in Glen Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Glen Canyon:
Broken Bow Arch 5.8+ Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III
The Middle Finger Tower 5.9 A3- Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 170 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Glen Canyon
Chimney Rock C0+ UT : Glen Canyon
**This tower is closed to climbing between March 1st- August 31st due to nesting birds. (see picture)The route consists of approximately 20 bolts/angles. It starts on the Northeast face following 4 or 5 hangerless bolts. The route continues up and around to the North face proper following more hangerless bolts, bolts with hangers, and angles. There is one free move at the end of the climb, which is made easier with some creativity and/or rock shoes. (Or bring a smattering of trad. gear f...[more] Browse More Classics in UT