By RyanO
From Golden, CO
Aug 2, 2011
| That's pretty freakin' cool. Looks way easier to place than a big bro.. | 
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By Phil Lauffen
From Louyuppie
Aug 2, 2011
| It sounded like that guy didn't think they would work... |
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By Derek W
From Larkspur, CO
Aug 2, 2011
| Phil Lauffen wrote: It sounded like that guy didn't think they would work...
That's just how Italians scream... |
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By thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Aug 2, 2011
| What was that thing he had all his gipsies racked on? Looked awkward and unnecessary. |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Aug 2, 2011
| I think he had an extra plastic thing on his harness to rack them, otherwise they'd flop all around and whack you in the balls and such.
I don't think those are really "new" though. I recall seeing them quite a while back. Obviously they haven't caught on... |
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By Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Aug 2, 2011
| that plastic thing is called the kong owl, its supposedly an easy way to rack pitons or something like that |
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By thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Aug 2, 2011
| froggy wrote: that plastic thing is called the kong owl, its supposedly an easy way to rack pitons or something like that
Ah, makes sense that I've never seen or needed one then. Cheers. |
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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 2, 2011
| Mark Roth wrote: Seen that idea before... rob.calm has an old one I believe?
this one?
| wooden chock
Submitted By: rob.calm on Apr 28, 2011
|
are they easier to place than that? |
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By Mark Roth
From Boulder
Aug 2, 2011
| He doesn't seem to have a photo of it, but he does have one... I've seen it! People came up with all kinds of whacky stuff in the 70s and 80s. |
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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 2, 2011
| cant you just place a bolt when it gets that wide? |
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By Tom R
From Denver, CO
Aug 2, 2011
| Darren Mabe wrote: cant you just place a bolt when it gets that wide?
That crack looks like it takes perfect bolt placements. |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Aug 2, 2011
| Crack didn't look any wider than 5 and 6 Camalots, but what do I know. |
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By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2011
| Mark Roth wrote: The #6 Gipsy only covers up to a Green Big Bro, at almost twice the weight! #6 Gipsy 485g #3 (green) Big Bro 264g www.kong.it/doc/KONG_GIPSY.pdf
True. Another way to look at it is that the #6 Gipsy weighs less than a #6 C4 and covers a wider range. The fact that the Gipsies are numbered 4, 5, and 6 suggests that Kong has BD in mind rather than Trango. The Gipsy is probably harder to push than a cam, and probably easier to place than a Big Bro. It's unlikely to supersede either, but could be the ideal pro for some placements. Hard to say more for me without having any direct experience. |
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By WanderLust
Aug 2, 2011
| Tom R wrote: That crack looks like it takes perfect bolt placements.
There is so much wrong with What u just said. There is no reason to bolt a crack. It is a crack and it takes protection that is not destructive. Bolts r for face climbing or when there is unnecessary risk without one. Lets keep climbing good and hard, lets face it. Some routes shouldn't just be casted off by Joe sport climber. That is a GOOD thing. Knowledge is power
"I remember when sex was safe and climbing dangerous" Jim Bridwell
P.s. if u don't know who that is. Learn |
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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 2, 2011
| WanderLust wrote: There is so much wrong with What u just said. There is no reason to bolt a crack. It is a crack and it takes protection that is not destructive. Bolts r for face climbing or when there is unnecessary risk without one. Lets keep climbing good and hard, lets face it. Some routes shouldn't just be casted off by Joe sport climber. That is a GOOD thing. Knowledge is power "I remember when sex was safe and climbing dangerous" Jim Bridwell P.s. if u don't know who that is. Learn
dude quickdraws are lighter than big cams!!
isn't Jim that guy that did a couple of FA's in Yosemite? |
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By Tom R
From Denver, CO
Aug 2, 2011
| Peter Adamson wrote: Are you honestly saying that we shouldn't bolt that crack? It's clearly too wide to be safely protected, the notion that it doesn't deserve bolts is simply ridiculous. I probably misunderstood you though, I don't think anybody can make a case for leaving these wide cracks so unsafe.
Awesome. |
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By Tom R
From Denver, CO
Aug 2, 2011
| Darren Mabe wrote: dude quickdraws are lighter than big cams!! isn't Jim that guy that did a couple of FA's in Yosemite?
Sweet. |
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By Tom R
From Denver, CO
Aug 2, 2011
| WanderLust wrote: There is so much wrong with What u just said. There is no reason to bolt a crack. It is a crack and it takes protection that is not destructive. Bolts r for face climbing or when there is unnecessary risk without one. Lets keep climbing good and hard, lets face it. Some routes shouldn't just be casted off by Joe sport climber. That is a GOOD thing. Knowledge is power "I remember when sex was safe and climbing dangerous" Jim Bridwell P.s. if u don't know who that is. Learn
"Sarcasm: a sharp and often satirical or ironic utterance designed to cut or give pain." -Merriam-Webster
If you don't know who that is, learn.
Edit to add: Sorry. That violated Guideline #1. |
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By cellige
Aug 2, 2011
| There is no way that that device is conceptually stable... |
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By kBobby
From Spokane, WA
Aug 2, 2011
| I don't trust it; it isn't made in 'Mer'ca. |
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By Aric Datesman
Aug 2, 2011
| Old is new again, I suppose. IIRC Stephane has pics of those on his site somewhere, but I'm blanking on who made them (early 80's perhaps?). I know there's one or two on display at Rock&Snow @ Gunks and seem to recall one at Neptune's in Boulder. |
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By Woodchuck ATC
Aug 2, 2011
| strange looking, looks pretty heavy and dangerous to rack 'yer nuts with for sure. |
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By Bruce Hildenbrand
Aug 3, 2011
| Anyone who does much off-width(OW) climbing knows that being able to push your pro up the climb above you is the number one factor, by far, in choosing OW protection. Trying to climb past your pro in an OW is usually the crux so if you can just push your pro up above you it makes the OW much, much easier.
I don't see how you can just push one of these new Kong Gipsys above you as you climb so for me, I will stick with SLCD's. |
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