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The Tan Buttresses
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The Gimp Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M. Battaglia, B Collett, August, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Aug 7, 2010

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The Gimp Route.

Description 

What do gimps do when they can't do anything worthwhile? Climb the Gimp Route.

1) Climb the broken pillar to its top, gimp right to the base of the prominent ramp and climb the ramp for a bit to a belay about 120 feet up. 5.7.

2) Continue up the ramp until it ends. Then climb straight up to a featured slab with an arching crack above it. Cruise up and right on this until you can reach the grassy ledges and belay at the top of them. 5.8, 165 feet. This is the most gimptastic pitch on the route.

3) Angle up and right through a bit of a gimpy chimney and some face climbing to belay below an obvious, left-leaning chimney. 165 feet.

4) and 5) Follow the chimney until it ends. When it does, gimp left to a solid weakness on the left and climb that to the top. 5.6.


Location 

The start is on a 40 foot high, broken pillar to the right of Noth'N But a Good Time. Look for a prominent, right-leaning ramp system that heads to the middle meadow of the wall just past the first buttress.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By nicholas patterson
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2012

Pitch two is very wet (dicey) on the slab moves. Maybe clean the grass out of the nice crack on pitch two of Lazy Sunday and climb that instead...might prove to be a bit more gratifying. Cheers.