The Gimp Route  5.8

551 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  M. Battaglia, B Collett, August, 2010 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Ben Collett on Aug 7, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Gimp Route.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

What do gimps do when they can't do anything worthwhile? Climb the Gimp Route.

1) Climb the broken pillar to its top, gimp right to the base of the prominent ramp and climb the ramp for a bit to a belay about 120 feet up. 5.7.

2) Continue up the ramp until it ends. Then climb straight up to a featured slab with an arching crack above it. Cruise up and right on this until you can reach the grassy ledges and belay at the top of them. 5.8, 165 feet. This is the most gimptastic pitch on the route.

3) Angle up and right through a bit of a gimpy chimney and some face climbing to belay below an obvious, left-leaning chimney. 165 feet.

4) and 5) Follow the chimney until it ends. When it does, gimp left to a solid weakness on the left and climb that to the top. 5.6.

Location 

The start is on a 40 foot high, broken pillar to the right of Noth'N But a Good Time. Look for a prominent, right-leaning ramp system that heads to the middle meadow of the wall just past the first buttress.

Protection 

Standard rack.