A great climb with a dual personality. I found the crux to be on the thin and insecure face climbing down low, but the steep rock on the second half still has a kick to it.
Not far to the right of the big Rockhouse of Autumn and Rock Wars, you will encounter a bolted thin face ascending up and right to a steep bulge. Climb this to a ledge with anchors.
9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor these days. There were once only 6.
Mike Bankoff makin' it happen! This is easily the...
BETA PHOTO: Dustin Clelen on lower slab section. The slab cru...
Kevin tiptoeing up to the headwall
|By Sam Lightner, Jr.|
From: Lander, WY
Apr 17, 2010
Got too scared of the bolts... its in bad shape.
|By Dustin Clelen|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2011
As of October, 2011, the bolts on this puppy are in fine shape. The first one is a drilled angle that's sticking out a good inch or so, but it's solid (similar to a lot of anchors in Zion, but with rock that's way more solid). I can't quite remember, but I think it may even be glued in place. The only slightly runout section is where the slab stops and the headwall starts. It's not bad though, deadpoints (for me) to progressively bigger jugs.
Bottom line: DO IT!