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The Gift 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Boone Speed, 1989
Page Views: 9,012
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jan 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Yann Gauthier cruxing on The Gift, Red Rocks. I gu...

Description 

One of the best and most famous hard-12 sport climbs in North America. It's been called 12c for years, but most of the current guidebooks now rate it 12d. This is an awesome, steep, strenuous route, involving thuggish climbing to a delicate crux at the very end.

Much of the climbing in the lower section would probably clock in at about 12a/b. The crux, involving a technical high step and reach to an elusive pebble, is not that hard in of itself, but the precision required for this move is usually hard to come by after the pumpy climbing below. For those who project in this grade range, the key to the redpoint is to ruthlessly wire the lower section so that one can arrive at the crux fresh.

On a sunny winter day, one can enjoyably spend the afternoon watching numerous people cruising the lower section only to be spit off by the crux, again and again and again.

Protection 

Bolts. There are usually in situ QDs in place, except for the first bolt


Photos of The Gift Slideshow Add Photo
Steph Marvez takes a burn on Boone's classic, The Gift.
Steph Marvez takes a burn on Boone's classic, The ...
The Gallery
BETA PHOTO: The Gallery
Urs half way up The Gift 5.12d in Red Rocks, Nevada.
Urs half way up The Gift 5.12d in Red Rocks, Nevad...
Ahhh, winter in Vegas!  Photo courtesy of Andy Mayer.
Ahhh, winter in Vegas! Photo courtesy of Andy May...
The Gift
The Gift
Wolfgang Braun moving through the first crux of The Gift.
Wolfgang Braun moving through the first crux of Th...
Chris Deulen entering the crux of "The Gift."
Chris Deulen entering the crux of "The Gift.&...
Working the Gift. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Working the Gift. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Erik Gearhart redpointing, 4/95
Erik Gearhart redpointing, 4/95

Comments on The Gift Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 1, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2004

Joe's description is a good one. I recall at the time (10+ years ago) thinking the route felt 'soft' for 12d, because at that time (and come to think of it, still) I usually can't buy my way up a 12d. The thing is, my opinion was unqualified, because I never red-pointed it (hang). I distinctly remember people shouting 'dynamic' beta at me through the lower section but doing it static and calling it 11+ though the lower part, but at the top I was wiped out and hung for minutes before finishing. So Joe's advice seems right on. The grade? Hard to say... I've only been on or done a few routes at that grade- most were 'harder' (more dificult, tricky or technical) but maybe this grade is correct.It did seem to me, and still does, that I climbed a few letter grades harder at Redrocks than in most other places.
By Randy
Feb 24, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

It has been probably 8 years since I did this route, but (like almost all Red Rocks routes) it was very soft for the 12d rating. I was a bit disappointed when it got downrated to 12c, but that is really a fairer grade.
By Max Schon
Mar 16, 2004
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

It's .12c if you cruise it, and .12d if you barely send it. If you don't send it, well, you don't have the right to grade it. Honestly people, who cares if its a "soft" .12d? The route is incredible, with awesome moves.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 17, 2004

Funny Max, I figure if I make a living habbit of dogging 12d's, then maybe I'd know what one feels like dogging it. Or maybe if I can't buy my way up a 10c, but I bought my way up this, then maybe my opinion is still valid.

Or maybe if you don't on-sight it, you aren't entitiled to an opinion either and a red point is the same as a hangdog to me. In which case, I bet your opinion is also invalid.

I think any qualified opinion is valid, just be clear and state what your experience with teh route is, TR, hangdog, or On-sight.
By Randy
Apr 1, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I was trying to be fair, but since you push the issue, No Way is the route 12d. 12b/c is really more like it, OK? There are 12bs at Josh and Rifle that are harder. Almost no technique is required, only endurance. It is a good route, but let's not get overly effusive.
By 10b4me
Jun 28, 2004

Randy if you haven't been on it in 8-years than I could see why you would say soft. Just remember, everytime it rains at RR, there will STILL be people climbing at the Gallery. Many of the holds have broken down over time from people climbing during wet weather. Some of the positive holds are not so positive anymore and some are just flat out gone. If you think its soft, jump on it now and send it up. I bet you just might change your mind!
By 10b4me
Aug 17, 2004

This grade debate is splitting hairs. 12c to 12d, wuddever.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

onsighted to to crux but not any further--------12+
By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

5.11 to a v4 crux
By 426
Mar 19, 2007

That's what Bachar made it look like...well, I guess 3rd class is more "accurately" descriptive.

I can still hear the tinny sounds of "Living in America" from his Walkman...
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 30, 2007

There is nothing "thuggish" about this route. I say 12d. People are quick to downgrade this route becuase many "cruise the lower section" only to take a number of tries to get the redpoint. I'm sure that there are very few true onsights of the Gift.
By Drewsky
Dec 19, 2008

I onsighted it earlier this year. Angle felt steep after 2 weeks in Joshua Tree. Enjoyable route: 5.11 to a V3 or 4 boulder problem is accurate; puts it at around .12b in my book.

But wait...all but the first quickdraw were hung and I saw someone fall off of it so that would make it more of a "First go, pinkpoint, knew where the crux was but not what it was, flash" than a pure onsight.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

There isn't a hard move on this thing, but it's still a tough redpoint since the smallest holds come at the very top. I give it 12c.
By D-Storm
Dec 1, 2013
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This one is hard for me to grade. 5.12d seems generous and 12c seems sandbag. No move seems too hard when you're fresh but linking it all together is a different story. I've been dispatching 5.13 as well as ever this season and this little route took me more tries than I'd like to admit.

Edit to add: I was recently told this route was originally given 13a. Maybe it's called "The Gift" for a reason! Regardless of the grade, the movement sure has some nice flow on tasty rock.