Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper Gibraltar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Route Runs Through It S 
Crescent Direct, The T 
Crescent, The T 
Dazed and Confused S 
Gibbon, The S 
Slacker T 
Soul, The S 
Triple Overhang T 

The Gibbon 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Brown & Jeff Buhl, 1992
Page Views: 791
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Doug Steigerwald nears the top of the Gibbon, at U...

Description 

Same start as The Soul. At the horizontal break, cut right and up past bolts (avoiding the 11b crux of The Soul). Well-protected face climbing leads to a 2-bolt anchor shared with The Soul.


Protection 

Bolts.



Photos of The Gibbon Slideshow Add Photo
Dave series 1
Dave series 1
Dave series 5: on easier terrain
Dave series 5: on easier terrain
Dave series 2
Dave series 2
Dave series 4: crux
Dave series 4: crux
Dave series 3
Dave series 3
long view
long view
Comments on The Gibbon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Noah
Feb 8, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great moderate lead. One 5.10 move early on followed by well bolted 5.8 climbing to the top. Easy clips, lots of bolts.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 10, 2006

Clipping the bolt at the crux is a little spooky. Blow the clip (or even blow it getting to the clip) and you'll blow your ankles. An orange or yellow TCU before the questionable clip will keep you safe.

By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 3, 2008

Yeah, spooky, especially when you can't find that high right and with an extended sling on the bolt below your feet...

By Richard Shore
Jan 23, 2011

The big juggy hold that allows you to clip the aforementioned bolt is ready to give way, be warned. I could hear it creaking and cracking as I pulled down on it. Additional gear is recommended before the questionable clip

By tim coates
From: ventura,ca
Mar 12, 2014

Start on A Route Runs Through It, then trend right to The Gibbon. Makes for a long and engaging pitch.