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 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Route Runs Through It 
Crescent Direct, The 
Crescent, The 
Dazed and Confused 
Gibbon, The 
Slacker 
Soul, The 
Triple Overhang 

The Gibbon 

5.10b

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
FA: Mike Brown & Jeff Buhl, 1992
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Doug Steigerwald nears the top of the Gibbon, at U...

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Description 

Same start as The Soul. At the horizontal break, cut right and up past bolts (avoiding the 11b crux of The Soul). Well-protected face climbing leads to a 2-bolt anchor shared with The Soul.


Protection 

Bolts.



Photos of The Gibbon Slideshow Add Photo
Dave series 1

Dave series 1

Dave series 2

Dave series 2

Dave series 3

Dave series 3

Dave series 4: crux

Dave series 4: crux

Dave series 5: on easier terrain

Dave series 5: on easier terrain

long view

long view


Comments on The Gibbon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Noah
Feb 8, 2006
rating: 5.10b

Great moderate lead. One 5.10 move early on followed by well bolted 5.8 climbing to the top. Easy clips, lots of bolts.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 10, 2006

Clipping the bolt at the crux is a little spooky. Blow the clip (or even blow it getting to the clip) and you'll blow your ankles. An orange or yellow TCU before the questionable clip will keep you safe.

By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 3, 2008

Yeah, spooky, especially when you can't find that high right and with an extended sling on the bolt below your feet...

By Richard Shore
Jan 23, 2011

The big juggy hold that allows you to clip the aforementioned bolt is ready to give way, be warned. I could hear it creaking and cracking as I pulled down on it. Additional gear is recommended before the questionable clip