The Gettysburger 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Kevin Sesler & Tom Atherton, February 1989 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking north to The Milepost. Scrambled Legs (5.1...
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Description This route is on the right side of The Milepost's southeast face and offers sustained, technical climbing right off the road.
Scramble up ledges to reach the start of the climb which is across a 10' deep chasm. Stem across, clip a bashie and then pull into a lieback/undercling to clip a bolt. Move up past a large, semi-solid blob of rock, clip the second bolt (1/4") and make delicate stemming moves to mantle awkwardly onto the blob (crux). Shorter climbers may find this section to be even harder as they strain for a distant edge under the last bolt. Once established at the last bolt traverse right (hint - stay low) to gain the base of a steep, featured crack which is followed to the top. It's possible to climb straight up past the last bolt and join the crack higher, where it jogs slightly left. Done this way it's a little spicier (but safe) and seems more like 5.11a.
This route packs a lot of good climbing into a small package and it's steeper than appearances might suggest, which earns it two stars out of five.
Protection "fixed" bashie, 3 bolts (3/8", 1/4"), pro to 1", bolted anchor/rap
| Comments on The Gettysburger |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.10c
| If you liked the crux hold of this climb traversing right after the last bolt... it is now lying on the ground at the base. Coincidentally, if you are wondering of those old bolts will hold a lead-fall, the answer is yes.
This climb ruined my perfect streak at J-tree (300+ routes and counting at the time of the fall) and I took a short fall onto it. Remarkably, although much of the flake/rock shed, I don't think that the overall rating of the climb has changed. The resulting crux is different, but not harder, as a new hold appeared. |
By Murf
Nov 8, 2010
| Going straight up is pretty hard, as Chris mentions, is likely safe but feels a bit dicey. |
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