The Gem 

I couldn't believe this route wasn't posted. If anyone knows the FA I'll add....

Great route, aside from the fact that the anchor placement sucks.

Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989.

My first time on this my belayer tripped and pulled down HARD on the rope while I was in the sharp pockets just about to clip the (third?) bolt.

Great climb. Bad experience.

Just a bit of history here. I was belaying Dave on the run before he got the FA. Dave was pulling up rope at the bolt before the one at the bulge. He had already pulled a bite into his teeth and then had the full length of that 2nd pull that gets clipped into the draw (lotsa rope out). An inch before the clip, Dave is airborne and I'm doing fast calculus to determine if it's time to back up the ambulance. Out of Dave's mouth isn't a scream, but a moderate toned "Whoooooooa" and then he stops about 6 feet off the deck. Well, I just about soiled myself, and he was cool as a cucumber. Correct me if I'm wrong, Dave.

@ Darryl... that is how I figure most of us might react... once you peel off the wall, realizing that it's gonna be a long and or close one... if you're belay isn't already on point, screaming isn't gonna improve their response. For me, a "Whoa" is all I can muster as I try to process what's to come. I think it might be linked to how we train to suppress our natural panic response. Sound thinking during these desperate situations is crucial. Love the historical stuff like this. Thanks!

I usually scream like a 3 year girl old at a birthday party, but what do I know...?