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Unsorted Routes:

The Gem 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: llamaface on Oct 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Adam bearing down on the small stuff of The Gem (S...

Description 

The Sharp End guide says "perfect rock, perfect pockets, perfectly difficult", and I agree.

Follow pockets up to a small, left-facing corner to some awesome "cranking" over a small bulge. Finish with a really cool sequence at the second larger bulge. The anchors are over the second bulge.

Location 

This is just left of Stress Rehearsal.

Protection 

6 bolts.


Comments on The Gem Add Comment
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By llamaface
From: Northglenn, CO
Oct 19, 2008

I couldn't believe this route wasn't posted. If anyone knows the FA I'll add....
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 29, 2009

Great route, aside from the fact that the anchor placement sucks.
By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 19, 2009

Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989.

My first time on this my belayer tripped and pulled down HARD on the rope while I was in the sharp pockets just about to clip the (third?) bolt.

Great climb. Bad experience.
By Darryl Roth
Oct 27, 2009

Just a bit of history here. I was belaying Dave on the run before he got the FA. Dave was pulling up rope at the bolt before the one at the bulge. He had already pulled a bite into his teeth and then had the full length of that 2nd pull that gets clipped into the draw (lotsa rope out). An inch before the clip, Dave is airborne and I'm doing fast calculus to determine if it's time to back up the ambulance. Out of Dave's mouth isn't a scream, but a moderate toned "Whoooooooa" and then he stops about 6 feet off the deck. Well, I just about soiled myself, and he was cool as a cucumber. Correct me if I'm wrong, Dave.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
May 22, 2012

@ Darryl... that is how I figure most of us might react... once you peel off the wall, realizing that it's gonna be a long and or close one... if you're belay isn't already on point, screaming isn't gonna improve their response. For me, a "Whoa" is all I can muster as I try to process what's to come. I think it might be linked to how we train to suppress our natural panic response. Sound thinking during these desperate situations is crucial. Love the historical stuff like this. Thanks!
By Damon Vaughan
Feb 17, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This route is awesome. Incredibly fingery start into a baffling crux up high. No matter how dialed I had the upper crux, it was at best 50/50, and when I sent I actually fell but caught myself on the underclings and sidewalk and was able to give it another go. Significantly harder than any other 12c I've tried at Shelf!
By slim
Administrator
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Wow, what a route. The lower section is fairly temperature/humidity dependent - you want cool and dry for this section. The upper crux, even more so. Clipping the 4th bolt is really intense. From the ground, it doesn't look like much, but when you get up there, you will see what I mean. The climbing through this section is brilliant, and it seems like this 8 foot section is more like 20 feet. The last crux, God help you if you aren't tall with a good reach. You will need to go full beast mode here.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 6, 2014

Doug's photo called to mind an opportunity I had to climb the Gem with Jim Garber shortly after the FA. Jim's flawless onsight was just so typical of him with his methodical, relaxed, deliberate style. His ability to clamp onto the tinest edges and hold on forever while he sussed out the coming sequence was just plain the coolest thing to observe. A brilliant moment in climbing.