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 ADVANCED
Old Folks' Wall
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American Crawl T 
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The Gelding Years 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ben Boykin, 10/14/2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: Ben Boykin on Oct 19, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The Gelding Years (9+ or 10a).
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thin start (bolt) leads to the shelf. Climb the initial offwidth crack (crux) and continue upwards as the difficulty moderates. May be harder for short people. 70 feet.

Although there is a bolt to protect the start, this is most definitely a trad route.


Location 

This route is in the middle of the wall. Descend from bolted anchors on alternate routes at the top.


Protection 

Hand-sized through #6 Camalots. Belay at the gap at the top with a long sling through the king-sized chockstone, and a few finger-sized stoppers.



Photos of The Gelding Years Slideshow Add Photo
Working the crux... early attempt, 2009. This was the wrong way to climb this route. Keep the right arm low, and go for it.
Working the crux... early attempt, 2009. This was ...
Readying to lead the crux. Photo by Rob Kelman.
Readying to lead the crux. Photo by Rob Kelman.
The start of <b>The Gelding Years</b>.
The start of The Gelding Years.
Greg Speer, crux getting the upper hand THIS time on <b>"The Gelding Years,"</b> 2009.
Greg Speer, crux getting the upper hand THIS time ...
Rob Kelman, contemplating what would later become <b>The Gelding Years</b>, 6 September, 2009.
Rob Kelman, contemplating what would later become ...
Ascending the crux of the route. 14 October 2010. Photo by Rob Kelman.
Ascending the crux of the route. 14 October 2010. ...
Comments on The Gelding Years Add Comment
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By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Sep 21, 2012

I sure would like a consensus grading on this. I have discovered that I tend to rate things by standards I learned elsewhere. Jim Donini told me that grades are grades, defined by the local consensus. So I would appreciate your input. I'm not infallible, and I'm certainly not absolute. Besides, I have learned that I can certainly be incorrect. Thanks.