The Gelding Years
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Greg Speer, crux getting the upper hand THIS time ...
A thin start (bolt) leads to the shelf. Climb the initial offwidth crack (crux), and continue upwards as the difficulty moderates. This may be harder for short people (like yours truly), 70 feet.
Although there is a bolt to protect the start, this is most definitely a trad route.
This route is in the middle of the wall. Descend from bolted anchors on alternate routes at the top.
Hand-sized through #6 Camalots. Belay at the gap at the top with a long sling through the king-sized chockstone, and a few finger-sized stoppers.
Ascending the crux of the route. 14 October 2010. ...
Readying to lead the crux. Photo by Rob Kelman.
Rob Kelman, contemplating what would later become ...
The start of The Gelding Years.
Working the crux... early attempt, 2009. This was ...
BETA PHOTO: The Gelding Years (9+ or 10a).
By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Sep 21, 2012
I sure would like a consensus grading on this. I have discovered that I tend to rate things by standards I learned elsewhere. Jim Donini told me that grades are grades, defined by the local consensus. So I would appreciate your input. I'm not infallible, and I'm certainly not absolute. Besides, I have learned that I can certainly be incorrect. Thanks.